by Ana Seidel, Vitaly Solomonoff & Doug Schoon

Have you ever heard the expression, “The world is getting smaller?”

It’s true.

But…

The internet has become a double-edged sword.

We learn really amazing things from people we will never meet physically. Our lives are improved immensely.

But… we also learn really dangerous and destructive things. The “Russian” manicure is a technique that could cripple the global nail industry.

In this article you will learn:

• • Why the Russian Manicure is considered a medical procedure

• • What the skin looks like microscopically after electronic bits have been used to “buff” the skin

• • Why this manicure practice permanently damages the nails of over 90% of clients who receive this treatment

• • Global statistics revealing how the popularity of this deceptive manicure process will permanently deform the nails of millions of people.

• And how to protect yourself today

The Hidden Dangers of the ‘Russian’ Manicure

By Vitaly Solomonoff – Dermatologist, Cosmetic Chemist, International Nail Judge and Author.

‘Beauty is pain’ is the well-known quote from Voltaire’s play, La Bégueule (the prude woman). This manifests when women are ready to sacrifice everything on the journey to aesthetic perfection.

The Russian (Dry, Machine, E-file) Manicure Defined

The ‘Russian’ manicure—a variation on high-speed microdermabrasion with e-files, is seen as an effective contemporary method of removing unwanted living skin as part of the preparation process of a nail service.

It is seen to negate the need for clipping, removers or wooden sticks. However, there are many concerns surrounding this method.

The Function of the Matrix

Frankly speaking, we should not remove living skin surrounding the nail plate at all. The only exception would be in cases when excessive skin or hangnails can become a source of infection.

The skin is a secure and strong guard to the most sensitive and fragile structure—the nail matrix, which is the only layer of germinative cells. This is the innermost layer of the epidermis from which new tissue is constantly formed.

The function of the matrix is to produce keratin, the main substance of the fingernail. The nail matrix is so sensitive that factors of temperature, insignificant pressure, minor injuries, and skin damage lead to inflammation. These external factors may impact the formation of the normal healthy keratin in the nail plate.

There are also plenty of internal factors, such as health and skin conditions which can influence the process too. These factors include diabetes, psoriasis, and lung disorder, just to name a few.

The incorrect synthesis (creation) of the nail keratin always results when the nail grows. Changes in shape, structure, texture, color or even separation from the nail bed (onycholysis) are all symptoms of damage to the matrix.

The sad news is that all of these results are unpredictable yet can be seen immediately or months after chemical, biological, or mechanical traumatisation.

Everything we see on our nails is the result of the matrix’s function. In fact, when we talk nails we should consider the matrix.

Three Year Study – Shocking Permanent Damage

Two years ago, my team completed the study of more than 300 cases of volunteers who regularly undertook a manicure using this technique.

The study continued for 38 months (over 3 years) before we came to shocking results.

We found 91% of volunteers suffered symptoms of a damaged nail matrix or nail bed!

Symptoms included all signs of matrix/nail dystrophy from splitting, horizontal ridges, and slow nail growth.

Extreme cases reported painful neuropathy (nerve damage) and high sensitivity.

Less than 9% of cases were determined as safe and ‘successful.’

It was also discovered that infectious inflammation is a common issue with clients who have a compromised immune system—diabetes, etc.

This type of inflammation occurs even when the manicure is performed with sterilized implements.

Immediate Damage

Microscopic cracks in the skin that are done during this type of manicure are inseminated with microflora during the few hours after the procedure. After analysis, we concluded that the source of danger from using this technique includes:

• Vibration – Even imperceptible vibration injured cells and induces the local immune response.
• Traumatisation – Damage, over filing or invisible (to the naked eye) micro-injuries even when a nail tech is sure his/her technique is controllable.

All together, vibration and traumatization induce acute or chronic inflammation and a syndrome of repetitive trauma, which leads to nail dystrophy.

Do We Need Inflammation?

Did I mean ‘inflammation’ earlier? Yes, it was not a figurative expression.

We get used to thinking inflammation is something unpleasant, painful and related to infection.

Actually, inflammation is not a symptom of infection, but a part of the human immune response and is a protective reaction. It occurs every time living cells—and sometimes dead ones—are damaged.

The injured cell releases an alarm signal in the form of special molecules—cytokines. Then immune cells get a call, and with blood flow travel to the place where the organism has been injured.

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Along with the local immune cells, the cytokines begin a real battle against physical agents, chemical agents, or microorganisms.

Normally, inflammation leads to the healing and renewal of the tissue.

However, inflammation may end with either a positive or negative outcome.

• Positive effects used in many cosmetic procedures from chemical peels to pedicure initiate this reaction to renew skin.

• Negative effects include ineffective inflammation. For instance, micro-organisms overcoming the battle or when the process turns into prolonged or chronic inflammation. The two factors of inflammation, cytokines, and toxins, continuously attack normal tissue preventing tissue repair.

Acute inflammation is usually a short-term reaction accompanied by redness, itching, swelling, and pain.

Chronic inflammation may be invisible at the start and followed by deformity of the organs or tissues. Chronic inflammation can only be observed over time.

This is the case with the “Russian” manicure. The matrix area, nail bed, and surrounding skin are receiving constant, repetitive traumatization.

This repetitive trauma causes chronic inflammation does not allow for physiological tissue recovery.

The turnover cycle of skin is approximately 30 to 35 days. However, manicures can be performed more frequently.

It’s no wonder that this technique leads directly to various nail symptoms and undesirable conditions. Many symptoms are postponed and become evident only months after a single procedure.

Long Term Damage

The constant mechanical attacks performed on the top layers of skin pass alarm bell messages to underlying cells of the nail matrix. The chemical language of cytokines activates the immune system response.

Consequently, the frequent activation of the local immune system means chronic inflammation, which in turn affects matrix cells.

Education Matters

A deep understanding of the processes in live skin helps us develop correct techniques for any manicure system.

This requires special knowledge, training, and understanding of what happens to the skin and nails while under attack from the vibrating, sharp bits of e-files.

Regrettably, we have NOT found a safe mode for this technique.

E-files are magnificent tools so let’s use them for important occupations, not the manicure. In improperly untrained hands, e-files can be very dangerous.

Knowledge and advanced education are the ONLY way to make this service completely safe.

Let’s argue with Voltaire and prove it to our clients—beauty can be painless.

(Reprinted with permission from the author, Vitaly Solomonov and ScratchMagazine.co.uk)

The Russian Manicure Can Lead to Permanent Damage

By Doug Schoon, Internationally-recognized scientist, author and educator

We want everyone across the globe to be aware of the problems of the “Russian Manicure”.

Someone commented on my Facebook page about their concerns that many will not heed the warnings from experts and I agree.

Hopefully, this problem may be self-correcting.

When people who use these methods start seeing the reported problems associated with these types of manicures, hopefully, they’ll take notice and stop this dangerous practice.

Like Vitaly wrote, symptoms people will see or experience are:

• Excessive damage to the skin around the nail plate
• Excessive regrowth of hardened callus-like tissue
• Redness
• Pain
• Puffiness
• Weeping
• Water-blisters
• Itching
• Allergies

Not only can this method cause the expected hardening and rapid/excessive regrowth of tissue, but the damaged skin is also more likely to develop infections.

Product-related skin irritations or allergies are more likely as well.

Invaders beware—watch closely for these issues—and don’t blame the products.

Blame your techniques.

I’m already hearing of, and seeing these problems.

One of the biggest problems in the nail industry is that too many nail educators are teaching misinformation they learned in the past. They have NOT kept up with their education.

And… it’s getting worse, not better.

Pseudo Fame

Many people teaching this manicure preparation technique are well-known artists. Some mistakenly believe they know what they are talking about—but often they do not.

These educators are harming the nail industry with every class they teach!

Just because someone can bling out a nail, doesn’t mean they have a real understanding of the nail or using products and are following the manufacturers’ instructions.

“Internet famous” does NOT mean “knowledgeable”. It only means that they are artistically skilled.

There is a big difference! Don’t be fooled.

Sterilizing Is Not Enough

There is a potentially dangerous myth stating that sterile implements or electronic bits can’t cause infections.

What? Of course they can.

The “Russian Manicure” is considered an invasive manicure. Invasive manicures are prohibited in many states, provinces or countries because they damage skin and make it significantly more susceptible to infections.

This infection risk can last for many hours and perhaps for several days. The skin will remain susceptible to infection until the damage heals.

Cutting the skin that borders the nail plate increases the client’s risk of infections, even after they leave the salon. I recommend that you don’t do this.

Someone told me, “Well, I’ve never heard of that happening”.

Of course not! Who would openly admit they cut their clients skin around the nail plate and cause an infection? Yet, I’ve seen this occur many times!

A Medical Procedure

The use of an e-file to smooth, buff, or abrade the skin around the nail plate is considered microdermabrasion.

Many states in the United States of America restrict the use of the files to only the nail plate. Other states require special medical licenses.

In many places, nail technicians are not allowed to perform these services.

Check your local regulations and with your insurance company. This technique may not be covered by your insurance policy and can put you in serious financial risk.

Even calluses should not be completely removed from the skin due to the increased risk of infection.

Is It Worth An Arm Or A Leg?

The skin on the feet or palm of the hand is many times thicker than the nail fold surrounding the skin.

Infections in the skin around the fingernail can quickly spread to bone and result in amputation of a finger or hands.

This is not speculation!

It happens far too frequently and is a problem the nail industry must solve.

Manicures should be safe and not endanger the public’s health.

NEVER intentionally cut or abrade the skin around the nail plate. That’s trouble waiting to happen.

Permanent Allergies?

Credit: Orianasnails

It is even more foolish to place UV gel manicure products or other nail coatings directly against this damaged skin.

Damaged skin is far more likely to become irritated or develop permanent allergies to nail products. More trouble is waiting to happen. Don’t do it!

Protect the skin around your clients’ nails. Don’t invade it.

Educate your clients about the risk of any invasive procedures and advise them against letting anyone cut or abrade this thin and sensitive tissue.

Be Proactive!

I’ve published “Nail Structure and Product Chemistry”, as well as a series of three books called “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”, Volume 1-3.

I’m a nail scientist. My books are factual and based on scientific and medical research.

My opinion is based on over two decades of experience studying nail salons, products, services, and common practices.

Sadly, most nail technicians do not bother to read my books, which is why we are in this education mess.

The facts are there for those who want to learn them.

Knowledge is Power

In my view, if you are a nail educator, you MUST read all three of my “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon” books or it is highly likely you’re are teaching misinformation.

This means you are part of the problem.

If you are a consumer, learn what procedures are dangerous and don’t let a nail technician hurt you. You are the best advocate for your body.

Global Access

My books are easy to read and understand, so please help to be a part of the solution and save the industry from sinking any deeper.

These books are available around the world from Amazon, iTunes, and available in the Nook and Kobo formats. They are available as both printed and e-books. They are low cost, and easy to get.

Please read them. You are responsible to provide healthy and safe manicures to your clients.

The Ultimate Test

Before you consider taking a class from ANY nail educator FIRST ask them… have you read all three volumes of “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”?

Reprinted with permission from Doug Schoon

Global Statistics for 2017

As you’ll read below, the most startling information is how many countries do not require licensing.

This means that ANYONE can start a nail career with no training!

Educators are going to other countries teaching nail techniques without licenses to teach in those countries.

UNITED STATES

• Market Size: $8.53 billion
• 56,386 nail salons
• 439,751 nail professionals, 31% don’t work in a salon
• Ethnicity: 36% Caucasian, 56% Vietnamese, 8% other
• Licensing: Required in all states, except Connecticut

CANADA

• Market size: $5 billion (hair and nail salons)
• Licensing: Only in Manitoba, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, though outside of these jurisdictions some aspiring techs do still opt for formal education and training

MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA

• Market size: $138.2 billion (estimated between 2014 and 2020 for South America, Central America, and North America)
• Licensing: Varies by country, but typically minimal or nonexistent

UNITED KINGDOM

• Market size: Annual beauty spending is £876 (US$1,270) for women and £711 (US$1,031) for men
• Licensing: Inconsistent — some parts of London require licensing but each council makes its own rules; no government licensing outside of London

GERMANY  

• • Market size: €2.5 billion (US$2.8 billion)

• Licensing: None for manicures or pedicures; cosmetologists (hair and skin professionals) and podiatrists (those who specialize in the health of feet) do have licensing requirements

SOUTH AFRICA

• Market size: R25.3 billion (US$1.9 billion) for all cosmetics and personal care together
• Licensing: No government licensing; many nail schools but no standard curriculum

RUSSIA

• Market size (beauty): USD$14.6 billion (RUB 555.1 billion) in 2014
• Schooling: Certificate of Training Completion earned from nail school; no license required

INDIA

• Market size: $3.5 billion in 2015 (all professional salon services combined)
• Licensing: None required by the government; multinational organizations and nail brands offer their own certifications via designated training facilities

AUSTRALIA

• Market size: $541.2 million
• Schooling: Nail courses available at beauty schools but many nail professionals are self-taught; no government licensing

JAPAN

• Market size: 160 billion yen (US$1.4 billion)
• Licensing: Private licensing via Japanese Nailist Association and nail manufacturers; no government licensing

VIETNAM

• Market size: 931,000 VND (US$42) average annual per-woman spending on beauty services (includes hair, skin, eyebrows, nails, and other professional beauty services)
• Licensing: No government licensing; some schools issue certificates upon graduation

Statistics Source: NailsMag [https://files.nailsmag.com/Handouts/NABB2017-18stats-LR.pdf]

In Conclusion

We only get one body and it’s our responsibility to care for it through the decades.

We make choices daily that are healthy or destructive to our health and wellbeing.

And, we live in a world now where we can be educated and influenced by people all over the globe.

Primum Non-Nocere

First, do no harm…

As you’ve learned in this article, there are certain nail care and nail enhancement processes that should be done by nail professionals.

Others should only be done by medical professionals. The “Russian Manicure” is microdermabrasion and is a medical procedure.

As a nail professional, you are responsible to learn and practice safe nail care and enhancement techniques.

Your clients’ nails change over time.

As an artist, you are only as good as the canvas you prepare. Are you doing it right?

Are you adapting as new medical knowledge is discovered about nails?

Credit: artnikitina.ru

There is a phrase in medical education which often gets aired at the welcoming lecture to medical school: “50% of what we teach you over the next five years will be wrong, or inaccurate. Sadly, we don’t know which 50%”  [Source: Blog Postgraduate Medical Journal ]

Product chemistry changes over time.

Are you learning from the product manufacturers regularly? What you learned in nail school may be very out of date.

You have a responsibility to take continuing education courses to stay at the top of your field.

You owe that to the health of your clients’ nails.

Caveat Emptor

Let the buyer beware…

As a consumer, you are responsible to know what nail preparation procedures will harm your body.

Credit: Crazynails_studio

Now it’s necessary to educate yourself.

You know the names and functions of your muscles, bones, and internal organs. You need to know the names and functions of the parts of your nails.

You decide with your money.

Do not exchange your hard earned money to let someone potentially permanently damage your nails.

If it hurts, make them stop. If you bleed, make them stop.

Do not let a nail professional hurt you because you “don’t want to hurt their feelings.”

And, do not assume that they are doing things because “they have more education.” A lot of them don’t.

Since the world is getting smaller, we owe it to ourselves and each other to keep it safer. 

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post The Dangers of the Russian Manicure first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Excerpt from Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon, Volume II
Available on Amazon and iTunes- July 2017

In this article, I’ll explain what a Russian Manicure is and why you never want one if your nail professional doesn’t have the correct training and appropriate license.

Since knowledge is power, I’ll also give you tips to help you become a better consumer when visiting a salon.

What Is It?

Some people around the globe are teaching a highly risky technique that goes by several different names including, the “Russian” or “Equipment” or “E-File” manicure. 

It doesn’t matter what it’s called, they are essentially the same.

The process is to use an electronic file with very fine bits to file off the living skin around the nail plate. They also file off the dead cuticle skin on the nail plate.

The skin that everyone incorrectly thinks is the cuticle is called the proximal fold of the eponychium.

The proximal fold, lateral side walls, and the hyponychium create the 4 required guardian seals to protect the nail bed and matrix from harmful germs and bacteria.

We never want to cut or sand down live skin!

I believe the Russian manicure techniques are a potential threat to the entire nail industry.

Here’s Why

These are procedures that can be “invasive” and they promote the intentional cutting and/or abrasion of the living skin surrounding the nail plate.

Those who teach these Russian manicure techniques don’t use the term “abrasion.” Instead, they use nicer marketing terms like “buffing” or “polishing.”  

Also, they claim to be removing pterygium, which would be incorrect. The pterygium is on the underside of the nail tip.

What these nail technicians are doing is removing the skin from the proximal nail fold and side walls.

To claim that the “nails look prettier” in my view is a poor reason to jeopardize a client’s health when safer ways to perform a manicure exist.

Cutting/abrading damages the skin and creates the very problem manicures are supposed to solve.

The result is more damaged skin that later must be cut or abraded away. It’s like a dog chasing its own tail!  

Many people report the skin around the nail plate grows back thicker after the Russian manicure, so the nail tech needs to continue the method regularly, just to keep up.  

The Crushing Danger

Nail salons are already under intense scrutiny and don’t need the media or salon-bashing activist groups using this as another reason to avoid salons.

This is a troubling concern.

Many people will be frightened by such techniques. This will make more people afraid of nail technicians and their services rather than enjoy the many positive benefits that salons offer.

Some nail techs justify their actions by claiming to use only sterile or disposable implements. They naively believe this prevents infections. Wrong!

Whenever the living skin is cut or abraded, the damaged area is more susceptible to infection for many hours or even days. The potential risk of infection will remain until the body heals.

One proponent of these methods argued to me, “I’ve never heard of that happening.”

Well, of course not!

Not many people would openly admit they cut a client’s skin and caused an infection.

Schools and teachers who promote these methods don’t check back with their students on a regular basis, so how could they know about when the methods they teach are being misused?

I’ve seen these types of nail tech inflicted infections occur many times.

Also, when this thin skin is damaged, it becomes more susceptible to irritation and may lead to permanent allergic reactions to nail coating products.

How?

Many people who use this nail preparation technique place nail coating products directly onto or up against the damaged skin. This also drastically increases the client’s risk for adverse skin reactions.

Some teachers say the bits are not abrasive and are smooth. Think about it. If they were not abrading the skin, then they would have no effect.

It is true that these bits may be less abrasive than the bits uses to file down acrylic nail enhancements.

But, any bit spinning at thousands of RPM and placed against the skin surface will abrade the skin.

This abrasion can reduce the skin’s effectiveness as a germ and bacteria barrier. It also makes it easier for infections and adverse skin reactions to occur.

Fools Rush in Where Angels Fear to Tread

Another person asked me, “if it’s such a risk, why are so many doing it?

Just because some people do this technique doesn’t mean it’s safe.

This method should NOT be taught to the masses via Internet videos or online classes. Yet this is what’s being done weekly.

Too many people are “jumping on the bandwagon” without considering the consequences to their clients or their business.  

Nor do I think so-called Russian manicure certification classes are the answer.

Many students of these courses often disregard important precautions and will return to the salon and do it “their way.” Then they will teach other nail technicians “their way” and those nail technicians will also do it “their way.”

Soon, the precautions will be forgotten and this could have unforeseen consequences that could harm clients and may be disastrous for the reputation of the nail industry.

Interestingly, many people who do these services claim they do it the safe way and others do not. Isn’t that the “pot calling the kettle black?”

Are You Licensed?

Even more importantly, using an e-file to smooth this skin is considered microdermabrasion. In many regions, microdermabrasion is restricted only to those with special licenses beyond nail technician licensing.

For instance, in the USA an esthetician license (or sometimes a cosmetology license) is required to perform microdermabrasion.

Ready To Fall?

I can walk on a rope that is one inch from the ground. I won’t get hurt if I fall.

But what if I try to walk on the same rope five feet above the ground? I could get seriously injured!  

An expert tightrope walker doesn’t worry about falling from five feet—they are experts.

The low rope allows a lot of room for error for non-experts, while the high rope allows “little room for error”.
When high-speed bits are used and manicures become motorized, this allows little room for error.

The skin around the nails is nothing like that on the palm of the hand or bottom of the foot. It is much thinner and easier to damage.

Besides, even calluses should not be filed smooth, since this also increases the risks of infections. A protective layer of callus should always be left behind.

Some e-file experts do understand how to prevent injuries. But this is not such an easy thing to teach to non-experts, especially after just a few hours of instruction (or even a few days), which is what most classes offer.

In Conclusion

NEVER intentionally cut or abrade the skin around the nail plate. That’s trouble waiting to happen!

Doug Schoon, Author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

NEVER place any nail coating product directly against the skin, especially damaged skin!

This is, even more, trouble waiting to happen. It increases the risks of skin irritation and permanent allergies to these products.

Better Solutions

Protect and pamper the skin around your client’s nails—don’t invade it.  

Teach them that their dry skin can be hydrated with a high-quality nail oil blend. It’s a simple and non-invasive solution.

Continue using the appropriate methods to properly remove the cuticle.

Explain to your clients and friends why they should avoid this Russian manicure technique as well.

We need you to help spread the word. Thank you! ~Doug Schoon

For more critically important advice about nail care, order Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon, Volume II, available on Amazon and iTunes- July 2017

The post The Russian Manicure – Is It Dangerous? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Do you hate polish chipping within a few days of polishing your nails? Who doesn’t?

In this article, you’ll learn:

• How I discovered why my polish was chipping after showering
• Why five layers of polish can be your best friend
• The fastest way to remove polish with a minimal acetone drying effect

How to Prevent Polish Chipping

We are all looking for ways to have our polish last longer and for a polish that doesn’t chip.

For me, it started with a Google search in 2010, “How Do I Keep My Polish from Chipping in the Shower?”

The solution came several months later after I had done over 200 hours of exhaustive research. I didn’t find the answer, but I did find the pieces of information necessary to create the answer.

The quick answer is that nails absorb 1/3rd their weight in water. When water is absorbed through the underside of your nail, it breaks the polish-to-nail bond. The long answer is here:  “How Do I Keep My Polish from Chipping in the Shower?”

I created the Fab 5 Polish Wrap to help prevent my nails from absorbing water.

Does it stop my nails from absorbing water if I’m doing dishes without gloves for 30 minutes? NO!

But it does stop my nails from absorbing water in a 15 minute luxurious shower! And as a Mom to 4 active children and an entrepreneur, that’s all I need!

The result, is that I can easily wear my nail polish for 7 to 10 days without any chipping! And nail polish that doesn’t chip is especially appealing when I’ve spent a few hours creating gorgeous nail art—I want it to stick around!

The Fab 5 Wrap Overview

1. 1. Two Base Coat Wraps: Apply 2 coats of ridge filling base coat, wrapping completely to the underside of exposed nail tip. Any polish that gets on your skin will wash or peel off. (OPI ridge filler is a good base coat.)
   2. Two Color Coat: Keep an orange wood stick available to wipe polish off of skin before it dries.
   3. One Top Coat Wrap: Apply 1 coat of your favorite quick dry top coat, wrapping completely to the underside of exposed nail tip. (I normally use Seche Vite top coat.)
   4. Clean Smudges: Dip a small makeup brush or art brush in acetone to clean up polish on skin and create a clean line near your eponychium (“cuticle” line).
   5. Oil: Apply your favorite nail oil to skin and nail polish.

The Fab 5 Wrap Details

1. 1. Clean Nails: Wipe your nails with rubbing alcohol and a lint free pad as your first step. If your nails are long enough, use a Q-Tip brand cotton swab with rubbing alcohol to clean the underside of the nail. This removes the surface oils and dirt from your nails.
   2. Basecoat Wrap: Use a good base coat, wrapping it around to the underside of your nail (not just capping your tips).
      * Base coat is formulated to bond to the NAIL surface.
      * Color nail polish is formulated to bond with base coat—not nails.
   3. Color Coats: Apply 2 coats of colored nail polish.
   4. Topcoat Wrap: Completely wrap your nails with topcoat all the way to the underside.
      * A good topcoat is also formulated to bond ONLY to nail lacquer (polish and base coat) and add a high gloss shine.
   5. Clean up your polish along the eponychium (“cuticle” line) using acetone and a makeup or artist brush.

1. 1. Rehydrate your cuticle lines and surrounding skin with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based, penetrating nail and cuticle oil like Bliss Kiss™ Simply Pure™ hydrating oil.
   2.  Apply a new layer of topcoat daily or every-other day, wrapping it around your tips. Apply nail oil two times per day or more.
      * TIP: The ingredients that make a good topcoat bond to nail polish and have an incredible shine make it a horrible base coat! Steer away from any product labeled as basecoat AND topcoat. It will do neither one well. ~Ana

Polish Removal

After 7 days, remove your polish with acetone. Acetone is actually less drying to your nails than non-acetone because it dissolves the polish quicker.

I find that my Soak & Swipe Manicure Clips do a better job than the traditional foil wraps.

Nail Oil Mini-Hydration Cycle

1. Apply a high quality, penetrating nail oil to your nails about once an hour for the next 4 to 8 hours. 
2. Or, do an intensive mini-hydration treatment with latex gloves. I have the instructions in my hydration treatment article.

Start over with a fresh Fab 5 Polish Wrap Manicure and enjoy!

The post PREVENT POLISH CHIPPING – Fab Five Polish Wrap first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

The Nail Salon Manicure – Is It Hurting You?

ASK ANA

“Ana, I have a question that has been plaguing me for a while now.  I have had several salon manicures from several different salons.  They all have the same techniques when doing manicures.  I have noticed that they go against just about every rule I have learned (mostly from you).

They used the roughest grit files, they file the sides of the nail, they file in both directions, they don’t cap the nails or paint the underside of the nail.  It feels like I am worse off getting a salon manicure.  I always notice my nails are in worse shape than when I went in.  It goes without saying I don’t get them very often, especially not now that I know just how wrong their techniques seem to be!

So the question I have is why do they do them so wrong and what is the RIGHT way to do them at home?

Thank you so much and I am absolutely loving my Bliss Kiss™ Simply Pure™ hydrating nail oil!  My nails are stronger and seem thicker than ever before!  Oh, and it is only been 13 days since I have started using it!!!  My nail polish has lasted longer than ever using your wrapping technique!!  Thank you so much!” ~ Danielle

ANSWER

Danielle, thank you for this really important question. This is completely why I do what I do.

There was very little proper information when I was researching everything several years ago and I found it extremely frustrating.

The short answer is that there are very few regulations in the nail schools.

So a lot of places just teach the way they have through the decades and teach what’s necessary to pass the state board tests.

Doug Schoon’s book, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry, is not a required textbook. (I hope it will be someday).

When I asked Doug why, here is his email response.

“Ana, my book is not required in the nail school curriculum. In fact, few schools even know about my book- which I fault Milady-Cengage for entirely… and I’ve complained to them about this for years. They have done a very poor job promoting my book to anyone, let alone schools.

There is no standardized teaching, even in the US, let alone the world. The Milady Nail Standard comes the closest to achieving this and is a pretty good book. Since I am a contributor, I make sure that the key information is correct in the Standard, but it is an instruction guide.

It doesn’t focus on troubleshooting and problem solving. For a deeper understanding, nail professionals will have to read my book.” ~Doug Schoon

Shouldn’t They Know Where the Cuticle Is?

From what I’ve learned from Doug is that very few schools actually teach the Nail Structure portion of his book.

Most licensed nail techs still don’t know that the casual name “cuticle” is in fact the proximal fold of the eponychium. The cuticle is really a thin layer of skin on the nail plate.

It’s my opinion that when someone graduates from nail school, they are a Nail Technician.

When they search out more thorough education and truly understand all of the content in Doug’s book and his DVD Inside Doug Schoon’s Brain, then—and only then—can they be a “Nail Professional.” 

Many graduates and licensed techs don’t know that the acrylic enhancement technology has advanced by leaps and bounds over the last 10+ years.

For example, the ingredients NO LONGER need a “roughed up surface” to create proper adhesion—but nail techs are still sanding down 1/2 the nail plate.

MMA

Acrylic nail enhancements are created with a perfect blend of monomer liquid and polymer powder.

Although banned by the FDA several decades ago, methyl methacrylate  monomer (MMA) is showing up again in nail salons in the United States.

Why?

Price—MMA is available for about $15-$20 per gallon compared with about $200 for the legal monomer.

MMA is completely safe when used in medical and dental products. It has even been safely implanted in the body as bone repair cement.

MMA monomer is fine for making bulletproof windows and shatterproof eyeglasses, but not artificial nails. There are 4 main reasons that MMA monomer makes a poor ingredient for artificial nail products:

• MMA nail products don’t adhere well to the nail plate (hence the shredding of the nail plate by over filing.)
• MMA makes extremely hard nail enhancements—if it breaks, it’s taking your nail plate with it.
• MMA is extremely difficult to remove—it won’t dissolve in acetone.
• The FDA and most state boards of cosmetology say not to use it due to the massive allergic skin reactions that consumers reported in the 1970’s. [source: Nail Structure and Product Chemistry]

Health Risks

Podiatrist Dr. Robert Spalding, author of “Death by Pedicure,” states that “at this time, an estimated one million unsuspecting clients walk out of their chosen salon with infections—bacterial, viral and fungal.”

And no matter which salon you go to, there is always a risk of infection. He claims that in his research “75 percent of salons in the United States are not following their own state protocols for disinfections,” which includes not mixing their disinfectant solutions properly on a daily basis, not soaking their instruments appropriately, and using counterfeit products to reduce costs (for example Windex substituted for Barbicide), says the doctor.

And the problem is that there is no way to really “verify an instrument has been properly soaked and sterilized,” without watching the process. [source: TotalBeauty.com]

Speed vs. Quality

Nail Tech

For most Nail Technicians, time is money. The faster they can get you out, the more clients they can service each day. They will use lower grit files (damaging), and file faster.

Nail Professional

A Nail Professional will block the proper amount of time she needs in her calendar to create the manicure you desire while having a pleasant conversation with you. She’s interested in you as a person and your life.

She’ll teach you that the cuticle is actually the eponychium. She’ll teach you that massaging nail oil into your manicure can improve the life of your manicure and keep your skin soft.

Most likely she knows your birthday and may even send a card. The relationship she creates with you is most important to her as well as giving you her best work.

She’ll be hard to get an appointment with because her loyal customers don’t leave. … and …

She won’t come cheap.

New Knowledge – Experimenting On Myself

Like many of my fans and customers, I’m a Daughter, Mom, Wife, Sister, and Friend with a passion for pretty nails and the plethora of glorious, sparkly, rainbow of lacquers available to us today.

But I also have an insatiable appetite to know, “Why?”

Fab 5 Nail Wrap

No one knows about the Fab 5 Nail Wrap because I created it. I wanted my polish to stop chipping in the shower. When I learned that nails can absorb 1/3rd their weight in water—combined with my experience of my sharp C-curve practically disappearing when my nails are soaked—I started thinking about the lacquer to nail bond.

I realized that no matter what I did to the top of my nails, the bottom of my nails were going to absorb water. This would always destroy the lacquer to nail bond.

The solution—paint the bottom too.

Inventing a Nail Oil

Bliss Kiss™ Simply Pure™ hydrating oil was created because I am allergic to almonds yet all cuticle oils have almond oil. My research taught me the importance of cuticle oil for keeping skin soft and that it could help brittle nails.

I studied ingredient lists of every cuticle oil on the market as well as home-grown recipes on the internet. I paid attention to the ingredients chosen repeatedly.

I also noticed how many cuticle oils contained ingredients I couldn’t pronounce, so I decided they weren’t necessary.

Little did I know—when I went to my kitchen to whip up my first batch of oil—that I was going to be creating a “nail oil” rather than a cuticle oil. I had some essential oils around my house and figured vanilla, lemon and pomegranate sounded good—so I added a few drops of them to my oil concoction.

Inventing the 3-Day Hydration Treatment

I applied the oil to my skin and nails. In 5 minutes it was gone. I reapplied. Periodically, I’d rub my nails checking if they still had a slippery feel.

When it was gone, I reapplied. By day 3 I noticed that my nails were staying oilier longer.

Unknowingly, I had created the 3-Day Hydration Treatment that would change the lives of women around the world.

The Right Way to Create a Nail Salon Manicure at Home

Nail Preparation

I will be creating a series of videos to demonstrate my steps to caring for my nails.

My hopes are that people will learn from what I publish and say, “That makes sense.” Forget the marketing and advertising—does it make sense?

But for those of you who just can’t wait for the videos….

1. File Nails before Removing Polish ~ The color will help you see your final shape better. 20 strokes with a 180 or 240 grit file will remove one week of growth.
2. Protect Skin  ~ Apply any inexpensive kitchen oil to your skin completely around your nails. (You’re protecting your skin from the drying effects of acetone.)
3. Remove Polish  ~ Use my Soak and Swipe™ technique in the video above. (Saturate that cotton! Let it dissolve the polish for 60-90 seconds if you’re wearing 5 to 10 layers of polish.When you see the color seeping into the cotton, use another piece of saturated cotton to remove the piece on your nail with one clean swipe. If there is still polish on the nail, use a new, clean, saturated piece of cotton. Yep, I go through A LOT of acetone.)
4. Wash Nails with Warm Water, Soap and Nail Brush.
5. Mini-Hydration Cycle with Nail Oil  ~ For 4-24 hours with 4 to 8 hours being the norm. (This reverses the drying effect of acetone to your nails.)
6. Remove the Cuticle  ~ Using a cuticle remover (or after a bath or shower), gently slide a cuticle removing tool across the surface of your nail plate. Polish doesn’t stick to skin.
7. Rinse Nails ~ with Warm Water, Soap, and Nail Brush. (Your nails will be filled with water and very soft if you wash too long.)
8. Apply Nail Oil ~ Continue applying your favorite jojoba wax ester based nail oil periodically until your nails have returned to their normal shape. (1 to 2 hours.)
9. Prep Nails for Manicure ~ Wipe dirt and surface oil off nails with rubbing alcohol and a lint-free wipe. Use alcohol saturated Q-tip swab to clean the underside of the nail plate.

What? No Buffing?

You’ll notice that filing down ridges IS NOT part of my nail prep regimen.

This is because ridges are the healthy portion of the nail. The valleys are the weak portion. Buffing down ridges is a HUGE NO-NO!!! I explain why in much more detail in this article.

The Fab 5 Wrap

I created the Fab 5 Wrap to help prevent my nails from absorbing water. Does it stop my nails from absorbing water if I’m doing dishes without gloves for 30 minutes?

NO!!!

But it does stop my nails from absorbing water in a 15 minute luxurious shower! And as a Mom to 4 active children and an entrepreneur, I need a little indulgence!

1. Two Base Coat Wraps: Apply 2 coats of ridge filling base coat, wrapping completely to the underside of exposed nail tip. Any polish that gets on your skin will wash or peel off.
2. Two Color Coat: Keep an orange wood stick available to wipe polish off of skin before it dries. Do not wrap the color because it’s difficult to remove.
3. One Top Coat Wrap: Apply 1 coat of your favorite quick dry top coat, wrapping completely to the underside of exposed nail tip.
4. Clean Smudges: Dip a small makeup brush or art brush in acetone to clean up polish on skin and create a clean line near your eponychium (“cuticle” line).
5. Rinse and Oil: Rinse acetone off—Apply nail oil to skin.

The Perfect Marriage

The Mini-Hydration cycle between manicures with the Fab 5 Wrap technique is a marriage made in heaven.

(Ok, well maybe not that extreme—but pretty darn close to me!)

Nail oil absorbs into your nails brilliantly but soap and water wash it away. The Fab 5 Wrap traps the oil into your nails.

Your nail bed continues to nourish your nail plate with m

oisture and sebum (body oil). Polish traps all of that wonderfulness in your nails keeping them strong yet flexible.

But then the polish must be removed and we start over. Acetone—dissolves polish and takes precious oils with it. The mini-hydration treatment—reverses the damage.

It’s simple. It takes extra time—but it works—and it’s worth it. To have healthy nails in the 20th Century, you really can’t have one without the other.

Hydrate—Protect—Dissolve—Repeat.

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