Want Longer, Stronger Natural Nails in 30 Days? The Ultimate Nail Care Routine is the cornerstone of the Bliss Kiss™ 30 Day Challenge. The BEST way to get started on your journey to longer, stronger nails is just a click away!

• Less peeling
• More bending and less breaking and chipping
• Fewer hangnails

The 30 Day Challenge is more than just a month of taking care of your nails. We want you to have the support and understanding you need to develop life long habits that you will take with you throughout the year, and throughout your life.

The image in this post shows the 6 basic steps of the Bliss Kiss™ Ultimate Nail Care Routine.

Step 1: START HERE: MEGA HYDRATION TREATMENT - Start by treating your naked nails to a Mega Hydration Treatment. Slather your nails and skin with Simply Pure™ and Simply Sealed™, then slide them into nitrile gloves. WEAR AT LEAST 4 HOURS. If your hands get sweaty, remove the gloves, wipe your hands off with a towel, reapply oil and lotion stick and put gloves back on for more hydration. Step 2: GET POLISH BACK ON YOUR NAILS! This will help to seal in the oil your nails just absorbed to keep them hydrated and flexible. (Remember, strong nails need to be FLEXIBLE to bend, not break.) If you can’t wear polish, keep hydrating your nails with oil, especially after you wash your hands. Step 3: OIL DAILY! Remember to apply Simply Pure™ 4-10x daily (or more as needed), and especially after you wash your hands. This is an important part of your nail care routine. It will help keep your skin and nails hydrated as your daily activities that strip away the oils from your skin.  If you’re wearing polish, the oil will help keep your layers of polish flexible (decreasing the cracking, chipping, and peeling of your polish). Oiling your cuticle lines also keeps the skin soft and prevents hangnails. Step 4: REMOVE POLISH - As soon as your polish starts chipping (or as soon as you get bored of your manicure), remove your polish and get ready to hydrate your nails to prevent them from getting dry and brittle. Step 5: MINI HYDRATION TREATMENT - Remember MINI BEFORE MANI! After you’ve removed your polish, slather your hands and nails with Simply Pure™ and Simply Sealed™ and put on nitrile gloves for 20 minutes - 2 hours (depending on how much time you have available) to give your nails and skin a good soak to keep them healthy and hydrated. STEP 6: REPEAT STEPS 2-5 - After treating your nails and skin to a Mini Hydration Treatment, Repeat the process again.

• Fab 5 Manicure.
• Oil 4-10x Daily.
• Remove polish when your manicure starts to chip.
• Mini Before Mani.
• Repeat. We recommend you do a Mega Hydration Treatment at least once a month, more depending on how dry your hands and nails get.

The post Top 10 Nail Care Myths first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.
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Nail Anatomy

Authors: Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

Nail Anatomy – The Different Parts of the Fingernail

Do you know where your cuticle is? Or your hyponychium? Most people don’t.

Not only is the general public confused about the names for the parts of the natural nail, but many nail technicians are not able to name the various major parts and know their function.

Let’s change this today.



Matrix

Where new nail plate cells are created and the nail plate begins to form.



Lunula

Lunula

A bluish-white, opaque area that is visible through the nail plate. This area is the front part of the nail matrix. Sometimes, it’s called the “moon.”

The lunula is the front part of the matrix we can see, or in other words, the visible matrix.

Not all fingers have a visible lunula. Usually, it is easiest to find a lunula on a thumb or index finger.

Many people think that they would like to have lunula’s, but in fact, you really don’t.

Since it is the exposed portion of the matrix, this area is not protected by the eponychium. It is easy bruised with every day life tasks.

Those bruises show up as little white marks in the nail plate.

Eponychium

Living skin at the base of the nail plate that covers the matrix area. This should NOT be confused with the “cuticle”.

Proximal Fold of the Eponychium



Healthy Proximal Fold

A tight band of living tissue that most people incorrectly think is their “cuticle”.

Since this skin dries out easily, people are quick to clip this skin believing that it’s not necessary.

Please, please, please…DO NOT CUT THIS SKIN!

The proximal fold is a required guardian seal that prevents germs and bacteria from getting to the nail matrix, where new cells are created.

I always know when girls are cutting. Their entire cuticle line is red and inflamed. Basically, their eponychium is infected all the time.

 

If you go to a salon for a manicure, do not ever let your nail tech cut this skin.

The best way to keep this skin soft and tight to the nail plate is with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based penetrating nail and cuticle oil.

Cuticle

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo



CLICK PICTURE FOR LARGER DETAIL

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and eponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the matrix area.

The cuticle pulls away from the underside of the eponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

The cuticle should NOT be confused with the “eponychium”.

Since polish and nail enhancements don’t bond to skin on the nail plate, the cuticle should be properly removed with gentle scraping only.

Nippers can’t remove the cuticle. It’s physically impossible.

Nail Plate

Composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid, protective layer over the underlying soft tissue.

The nail plate should NOT be confused with the nail “bed”.

The average person has 50 layers of keratin cells that make up the nail plate.

The thickness of your nails is determined by the size of your matrix.

Not everyone’s matrix is the same size. People with thin nails have a small matrix and will have less than 50 layers. People with thick nails have a large matrix and have more than 50 layers.

Nail Bed

The soft, pink tissue that sits underneath and supports the nail plate while it grows. The nail bed should NOT be confused with the nail “plate”.



CLICK FOR MORE DETAIL

Hyponychium

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

A soft tissue seal underneath the extended “free” edge of the nail plate whose purpose is to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

Onychodermal Band

A band of bunched up tissue located behind the hyponychium.

This band improves the ability of the hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The onychodermal band works in the same way as the proximal fold on the top surface of the nail.

When looking at your bare nails, you can see this darker band of skin right before your nail plate leaves the nail bed to become your free edge.

Solehorn Cuticle

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The solehorn cuticle pulls away from the underside of the hyponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

Bone

Bone supports and shapes both the nail matrix and nail bed. The flat or curved shape of your nails is determined by the shape of your fingertip bone.

Knowledge is Power

Knowing your nail anatomy is important for the home manicurist and can actually help you find an excellent nail professional if you’re wanting to be pampered. 

Ask her how she removes the cuticle.

If she shows you nippers instead of a spoon shaped remover or curette, you’ll know to politely walk out and find someone new.



If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post NAIL ANATOMY – Different Parts of Fingernail first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Nail Anatomy

Authors: Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

Nail Anatomy – The Different Parts of the Fingernail

Do you know where your cuticle is? Or your hyponychium? Most people don’t.

Not only is the general public confused about the names for the parts of the natural nail, but many nail technicians are not able to name the various major parts and know their function.

Let’s change this today.

Matrix

Where new nail plate cells are created and the nail plate begins to form.

Lunula

Lunula

A bluish-white, opaque area that is visible through the nail plate. This area is the front part of the nail matrix. Sometimes, it’s called the “moon.”

The lunula is the front part of the matrix we can see, or in other words, the visible matrix.

Not all fingers have a visible lunula. Usually, it is easiest to find a lunula on a thumb or index finger.

Many people think that they would like to have lunula’s, but in fact, you really don’t.

Since it is the exposed portion of the matrix, this area is not protected by the proximal nail fold. It is easy bruised with every day life tasks.

Those bruises show up as little white marks in the nail plate.

Eponychium

Living skin at the base of the nail plate that covers the matrix area. This should NOT be confused with the “cuticle”.

The Keratinized Proximal Nail Fold (The PNF)

A tight band of living tissue that most people incorrectly think is their “cuticle”.

Since this skin dries out easily, people are quick to clip this skin believing that it’s not necessary.

Please, please, please…DO NOT CUT THIS SKIN!

The proximal fold is a required guardian seal that prevents germs and bacteria from getting to the nail matrix, where new cells are created.

I always know when girls are cutting. Their entire cuticle line is red and inflamed. Basically, their PNF is infected all the time.

If you go to a salon for a manicure, do not ever let your nail tech cut this skin.

The best way to keep this skin soft and tight to the nail plate is with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based penetrating nail and cuticle oil.

Cuticle

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

As the nail cells are created and pushed forward, the nail plate literally rips the bottom layer of eponychium cells with it.

It is these cells that are the cuticle.

Cuticle cells also tightly grip the proximal nail fold. This creates a nice, tight guardian seal that prevents bacteria and germs from damaging or destroying your nail matrix.

The cuticle should NOT be confused with the “eponychium”  [or proximal nail fold]. ~Doug Schoon, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

Since polish and nail enhancements don’t bond to skin on the nail plate, the cuticle should be properly removed with gentle scraping only.

Nippers can’t remove the cuticle. It’s physically impossible.

Nail Plate

Composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid, protective layer over the underlying soft tissue.

The nail plate should NOT be confused with the nail “bed”.

The average person has 50 layers of keratin cells that make up the nail plate.

The thickness of your nails is determined by the size of your matrix.

Not everyone’s matrix is the same size. People with thin nails have a small matrix and will have less than 50 layers. People with thick nails have a large matrix and have more than 50 layers.

Nail Bed

The soft, pink tissue that sits underneath and supports the nail plate while it grows. The nail bed should NOT be confused with the nail “plate”.

Hyponychium

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

A soft tissue seal underneath the extended “free” edge of the nail plate whose purpose is to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

Onychodermal Band

A band of bunched up tissue located behind the hyponychium.

This band improves the ability of the hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The onychodermal band works in the same way as the proximal fold on the top surface of the nail.

When looking at your bare nails, you can see this darker band of skin right before your nail plate leaves the nail bed to become your free edge.

Solehorn Cuticle

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The solehorn cuticle pulls away from the underside of the hyponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

Bone

Bone supports and shapes both the nail matrix and nail bed. The flat or curved shape of your nails is determined by the shape of your fingertip bone.

Knowledge is Power

Knowing your nail anatomy is important for the home manicurist and can actually help you find an excellent nail professional if you’re wanting to be pampered. 

Ask them how they removes the cuticle.

If they shows you nippers instead of a spoon shaped remover or curette, you’ll know to politely walk out and find someone new.

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post NAIL ANATOMY – Different Parts of Fingernail first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

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People often ask me if they should remove their cuticles. This is a very hot topic filled with misinformation.

If you don’t wear nail polish or other nail enhancements, the answer is NO!

For a lot of people, removing cuticle tissue is NOT necessary.

There are only two types of people who need to remove their cuticles.

1. You wear solvent-resistant nail enhancements like gel, acrylic, polygel, or dip nails.
2. You wear traditional nail polish AND it chips at your cuticle line.

Notice how I don’t include nail polish in the list in #1? There’s a reason for this.

Before I explain more, let’s get some clarity about where the cuticle actually lives.

If you’re new to my articles, the truth might surprise you.

For most of us, we learned the names of different parts of our body in elementary/primary school.

We were incorrectly taught that the band of skin at the base of the nail is the cuticle.

This band of skin is actually the keratinized proximal nail fold.

Never Remove Cuticles? Really?

If you don’t wear nail enhancements, you NEVER need to remove the cuticles.

Refer to the photo above. The cuticle is actually a thin layer of colorless, nonliving tissue that sticks very tightly to the freshly made nail plate.

Combined with the keratinized proximal nail fold, the cuticle creates the most important guardian seal protecting the nail matrix from germs and bacteria.

Cuticle Confusion

Does this sound like you?

You are new to learning how to improve your nail care. You hop on the internet and YouTube for answers. 

You keep hearing/reading that you should remove the cuticle. But seemingly respectable websites, like WebMD, also have articles that tell you to never cut your cuticles.

Your anatomy lessons in school have set you up to make the wrong conclusion.

You assume that they’re talking about what “you think” is the cuticle.

In addition, it isn’t helpful that there is a product called the “cuticle cutter.” Now you assume that cuticles should be cut.

Again, incorrect.

The real truth is that gentle scraping is the only way to remove cuticles.

Reader Beware!

I write a lot that it’s important to find respectable resources who write truthful content.

But the internet is now a landmine of myths, falsehoods, and fear-mongering. How are you supposed to know?

The following photo is a snapshot of the beginning of an article published on WebMD. It is one of the thousands of articles that make me want to pull my hair out in frustration.

This article was written by a freelance author who is not a doctor. As you’ve already learned, she clearly doesn’t know the correct location of the cuticle.

As a result, the article is completely useless. But most people don’t know that and read it as truth.

Then to compound the problem, the article is reviewed by a doctor, who apparently approved this piece of “content” as truthful.

The Rise and Fall of WebMD

Sites that used to be respectful resources usually end up falling into the “cater to the Google algorithm” mentality. This is what has happened with WebMD.

WebMD started June 14, 1996 as Healthscape. In 1999 it was part of a three way merger with Sapient Health Network (SHN), Direct Medical Knowledge (DMK) and Healtheon. Articles were written by doctors.

In 2013, the Chicago Tribune reported that WebMD, “has struggled with a fall in advertising revenue with pharmaceutical companies slashing marketing budgets as several blockbuster drugs go off patent.” In response, WebMD began investing in changes to its site in order to entice users who use its site seeking specific information to linger on the site reviewing other material. ~Source: Wikipedia.org/wiki/WebMD

Since WebMD is now financed by advertising, third-party contributions, and sponsors, “investing in changes” means offering more content to keep the Google machine happy.

WebMD’s network of websites reaches more unique visitors each month than any other leading private or government healthcare website.

Writing in The New York Times Magazine in 2011, Virginia Heffernan criticized WebMD for biasing readers toward drugs that are sold by the site’s pharmaceutical sponsors, even when they are unnecessary. She wrote that WebMD “has become permeated with pseudo-medicine and subtle misinformation.“

Julia Belluz of Vox criticized WebMD for encouraging hypochondria and for promoting treatments for which evidence of safety and effectiveness is weak or non-existent, such as green coffee supplements for weight loss, vagus nerve stimulation for depression, and fish-oil/omega-3 supplements for high cholesterol. ~Source: Wikipedia.org/wiki/WebMD

Do I Even Have Cuticles to Remove?

Did you know that some people don’t have any cuticles on their nail plates?

Might seem strange, but true.

Dead skin cells continually slough off of our bodies. We often speed up the process by exfoliating in the shower.

Living life with our hands usually provides plenty of opportunities to naturally exfoliate the cuticle from our nail plate; shoving our hands in pockets, grabbing loads of laundry, digging through our purses or backpacks, even drying our hands on a towel.

Removing What Isn’t There

If you lived in southern Florida or Fiji where it never freezes, and I told you to scrape the ice from your car windshield during the winter, you would think I had lost my mind. It seems a little crazy to scrape nonexistent ice. 

The same is true about the cuticle.

It’s pretty challenging to see a thin, colorless layer of tissue. It’s even harder to see if it has rubbed off!

Universal Truth

Have you ever applied a messy manicure and noticed that the polish came right off your skin in the shower? 

Nail enhancement products don’t bond to skin. 

Companies formulate enhancements to bond to the hard keratin structure of our nails.

When to Scrape

If you wear any sort of solvent-resistant enhancement like gel, polygel, acrylic, or dip nails, removing the dead cuticle on the nail plate is important. 

“During a properly performed manicure, the keratinized proximal nail fold is gently pushed back to expose the cuticle. The cuticle must be carefully removed. Improperly performed, this part of the manicure can lead to problems.

For example, applying artificial nail products over this thin layer of skin will prevent proper adhesion. This causes the artificial nail to separate and lift from the surface of the natural nail plate.

Many hours of valuable time are lost to repairs made necessary by careless removal of the cuticle. Not only can improperly removing the cuticle contribute to artificial nail service breakdown, it can also lead to infection or nail deformities.

This is why it is very important to avoid removing the cuticle from underneath the nail fold. It is fine to push back on the keratinized nail fold first, but do not place any instrument underneath the nail fold itself. This can lead to injury and infection.” ~Doug Schoon, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

The Cuticle and Nail Polish

Just because you wear traditional polish, don’t assume you need to remove your cuticles. 

You may not have any.

If your nail polish constantly chips at your cuticle line, then you most likely have cuticle on your nail plate.

This is when it is a good time to learn proper cuticle removal as part of your manicure routine.

The frequency of cuticle removal depends on your rate of nail growth. I would recommend it once every two to four weeks.

Cuticle tissue only shows up on new nail growth.

In Conclusion

There are a couple of wise sayings I’d like you to remember.

“Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better.” —Maya Angelou

“Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.” 

It’s very important to understand “why it’s a good idea” to take on a new skill, technique, or practice.

Do you need to purchase and learn how to use a skill saw if you’re always going to hire a carpenter to do construction work for you?

Sometimes it’s more important to ask the right questions first.

Only then will you find the right answers. ~Ana

---

The post Should You Remove Cuticles? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

You’ll find all kinds of reasons on websites around the internet. I find that a lot of them are inaccurate and leave you with the feeling that something might be horribly wrong with your health.

The TRUTH is that for most of us, simply living life does the most damage to our nails.

When it comes to nails, there are three types of people.

1. People with zero length and they’d like them to grow longer.
2. People with 3mm+ of length and want them to stay that way.
3. People who just don’t care.

If you’re reading this, it’s safe to assume that you are in one of the first two categories.

#1 Tip Wear

The main cause can be summed up in two words—tip wear.

We use our hands all day long. No, really. All—day—long.

Watch yourself as you go through your day. When are your hands doing absolutely nothing?

Why is tip wear a big problem for those with shorter nails?

People with short nails use their hands differently from those with longer nails.

They can grab, touch, poke, scratch, etc. with the very tips of their fingers. 

My husband’s nails are very short and the skin at the very tips of his fingers has toughened with use.

The advantage is that he has precise control when he touches different screen locations on his phone. I can actually hear his fingertip skin clicking on the screen!

My nail tips range from 3mm to 10mm depending on my laziness at trimming them. The skin on my fingertips rarely touches anything.

As a result, on the rare occasion that I have a deep break, my fingertip is overly sensitive. 

It can be painful to touch things for a few days until the skin gets tougher. 

Once the nail free-edge grows to about 3mm, we start to adapt how we use our hands to accommodate for our nails “being in the way.”

Leave a Trail

I physically CAN’T pick things up with my fingertips.

I use the pads of my fingers. Basically, I leave my fingerprints everywhere!

As a result, my fingernails don’t touch everything.

Here’s where we get back to the problem with tip wear.

The free edge of shorter nails takes a lot more abuse. They get rubbed and beaten more.

Like a Book

Although this isn’t an exact analogy, pretend your nail layers are like the pages of a book. 

When the pages are new, they are flat and lay nicely together. Now imagine if you kept fiddling with the edges. You fan the pages repeatedly. Maybe you accidentally drop it in the bathtub and then rush to dry it out in the sauna. Now the pages are warped and curling. You try to smooth out the edges but that just seems to make them worse. You notice that some of the pages are starting to tear. But you need to keep reading the book. It slides off your lap and crashes to the floor. You pick it up and try smoothing the pages again, but doing so causes some of the pages to rip out of the binding. 

Our fingernails can take much more abuse than this poor little book. But they aren’t indestructible.

We scratch places that itch, oftentimes through fabric. We grab, dig, push, pry, poke, and so much more. Our hands and nails take a lot of abuse.

This abuse can cause the layers at our tips to splay out and start to peel.

#2 Water Damage

Although our nails are about 50 layers of a tough, fibrous protein called keratin, they have a major weakness—water. Think of it as Superman’s weakness to kryptonite.

Refer to the picture below. Water can travel around AND through all of the tiny holes in every nail cell.

Our nails have the ability to absorb 1/3rd of their weight in water in a matter of minutes. That doesn’t sound like much, right?

Now imagine what would happen to you if you absorbed 1/3rd of your weight in water that quickly. You’d be pretty puffed up, soft, and squishy. The same effect happens to our nails.

It takes one to two hours for that water to evaporate out of our nail tips.

But our nails need a small amount of moisture and body oil to remain flexible enough to bend when we bang them into things.

The repetitive cycle of exposure to water with evaporative drying causes our nails to become too hard and brittle.

People with short nails usually aren’t doing the techniques that help decrease nail peeling and breaks.

#3 Stress Fractures

The official label for damage from the nail tip bending repetitively is transverse fissures. I call them stress fractures because it’s a little easier to remember.

Nail layers are a hodge-podge of interlinking cells as you can see in the photo above.

If you have short nails and you’re wanting to grow them longer, the 0 to 3mm time period is a “danger zone” phase of growth.

Why?

Because you haven’t started to change your behavior when using your hands.

You don’t have nail tips forcing you to change the way you navigate through life.

As a result, you’re going along using your hands the way you always do. 

The problem is that these short nail tips keep bumping into EVERYTHING. 

Your tips are continually getting bent and you probably don’t even notice.

People with thicker nails don’t tend to have issues with short nail tips bending and fracturing. 

But if your nails are naturally thin and weak, like mine, then excessive bending is a big problem.

Although there are many techniques and practices to successfully growing your nails longer—ie: breaking them less—there are three main ways that will really help; 

1. Intensive hydration treatments with a high quality, jojoba wax ester-based nail oil
2. Short term use of nail strengtheners
3. Learning how to use your hands differently.

Let’s look at these a little closer.

Nail Oil

Water pushes our nail layers apart and nail oil can help “glue” them together. When all the little gaps around the nail cells are filled with oil, water can’t get in.

I explain the importance of nail oil to naturally strengthen nails in far more detail in another article.

The fastest way to get oil into your nail tips is to warm up the oil. This can be done in two ways; warm the oil in a bowl, or wear nitrile gloves to help contain your body heat thus warming the oil.

I don’t like the first option because it uses a lot of oil, it can be wasteful, and you are stuck with your hands in a bowl of oil for quite a while.

The second option uses 1 drop of nail oil under each nail which will also wick around to the top. Because you are wearing nitrile gloves, you can continue going about your daily tasks and even use your phone.

Click here for the full directions to the Intensive Hydration Treatment

Nail Strengtheners

I have learned that the danger zone is one period in time where nail strengtheners can be really helpful.

Strengtheners have ingredients that hold your nail layers together giving them better temporary strength than traditional polish. 

Many people think I am against nail strengtheners, but this is not true. 

I have a problem with the marketing claims. I discuss this in greater detail in my Nail Strengtheners article.

The keyword to remember is “temporary”. 

These strengtheners don’t do anything to change the actual structure and makeup of your nail plates.

As soon as you remove the product, your nails are the same as before applying the nail strengthener.

But they can still be helpful in reducing peeling.

Nail strengtheners work in a similar way that an ankle brace provides support. 

You still have the mobility of your foot and ankle, but it’s held more securely so you don’t hurt yourself again while walking. The brace doesn’t repair the ankle. It just provides support.

It is also important to remember that once your tips have reached 2-3mm, you no longer need the strengthener.

They can actually cause your nails to be too hard. They won’t bend on impact with a hard surface or object.

At this point, it’s best to shift to using 5 layers of polish using my Fab 5 Wrap Technique.

Use Your Hands Differently

Pretend you’re wearing wet nail polish all the time. 

It’s really quite simple. But I’ll be honest—it’s not easy.

You have to pretend you have longer nails in order to minimize the breakage and peeling while they are in this short phase.

It is when you have learned how to minimize the breaks and peeling that your nails will be able to grow past the “danger zone.”

In Conclusion

“If you always do what you’ve always done, you always get what you’ve always gotten.” ~ Jessie Potter

If longer nails are important to you, you’ll simply want to change the way you do things.

You’re learning new practices. 

Incorporating new ways to improve your personal care takes thought and patience. 

It can take a little time. Just know that the results will be worth the hard work.

The post 3 Reasons Why Short Nails Peel More first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Perhaps you have recovered from Covid-19 and you’ve noticed some deep horizontal grooves, called Beau’s Lines, in one or more of your nails.

If it seems like there might be no end in sight, you’re not alone.

Living through and surviving the Covid-19 pandemic has put the entire planet under more stress than we’ve experienced in decades.

Nail problems can usually be sleuthed out by looking at four categories; Stress, Health, Home, and Work/Hobbies.

A lot of times, the answer is due to one cause, sometimes two. 

But this pandemic has put ALL FOUR into play.

The Magic Question

When people ask me what’s suddenly wrong with their nails, I start with one major question.

What big thing happened to you 4 to 6 months ago? 

Why is that the magic question?

Because the nail tips you have today were created four to six months ago.

On average, the journey from creation in the matrix to where you finally see the nail at the keratinized proximal nail fold (cuticle line) has taken one to two months.

It takes about another 4 months for the nail to continue growing to the hyponychium (where the nail leaves the pink nail bed to become the free edge.) 

Let’s look at the 4 categories that have contributed to why you feel like your nails have “suddenly gotten worse” or seem like “they just won’t get better.”

Stress

Whether good or bad, stress is often the major reason for nail issues.

We’re living in a state of perpetual fear of loss; loss of income, possible loss of home, loss of connection to those we care about, and loss of freedom.

We aren’t sleeping well. 

More and more people are dealing with chronic anxiety and depression.

Divorce and substance abuse rates are rising uncomfortably fast.

Parents are now needing to support educating their children at home on top of juggling their work responsibilities from home.

Our youth have lost one of the major things that help make school more bearable—hanging out with their friends.

Health

As of this writing in February 2021, 106 million people have caught the Corona Virus while 78 million have recovered. [Source: Worldometers.info]

On the surface, that might sound positive.

But we have no idea what “recovered” actually means other than “still alive and discharged from the hospital.”

Since Covid-19 is a respiratory disease caused by the coronavirus, this means it affects your nose, throat, and lungs. 

Both my oldest son and best friend got violently sick at the beginning of  2020 while Covid was raging through China. It’s now 13 months later and both have a persistent cough, have frequent episodes of struggling to breathe, and several other health issues.

Although most people seem to be recovering, there’s growing concern over a new group of people, “long-haulers”, who have lingering symptoms.

Long-lasting symptoms often include: coughing, tightness in the chest, shortness of breath, headaches, muscle aches, and diarrhea. But perhaps the most significant symptom that is being seen across the board in coronavirus long-haulers is fatigue. Oftentimes, this group feels very run down and tired. They can’t exert themselves or exercise and simple tasks (like walking to the mailbox) will often leave them feeling exhausted. Chronic fatigue like we’re seeing in this group can be incredibly debilitating and frustrating. Many long-haulers also report brain fog, difficulty concentrating, or feel like they aren’t as sharp as they used to be. [Source: Health.clevelandclinic.org]

We don’t know yet if we will see a significant rise in asthma or functional breathing disorders (FBD) in those who recover.

How will asthma or FBD show up in your nails? 

Oxygen and nutrients are delivered to your nail matrix by your blood. 

Your body’s survival mechanisms will focus delivery of blood flow to your brain and internal organs before your extremities like fingers and toes. 

Compromised oxygen intake will have negative effects on our nail health over time.

Home

How has your home changed over the last year?

We’re washing our hands with water and soaps significantly more. 

The global hand sanitizer market is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 22.6% from 2019 to 2027. [Source: Grandviewresearch.com]

The active ingredient in hand sanitizers, ethyl alcohol, is very drying to hands and nails.

Are you doing more cleaning because everyone is stuck at home and making more messes than when all of you went to work and school?

Are you wearing gloves when cleaning?

Do you have young children and constantly changing diapers?

Are you responsible for chores like laundry, making the bed, or yard work? 

Hobbies/Work

Water, paper, fabric, and other materials can strip away your body’s natural oils, including the oil within your nail plate.

Since we’re spending more time at home, many of us may have dusted off neglected crafts and hobbies that can strip oils from skin and nails.

Getting Back to Normal

So many of us are grieving for the life we had before 2020. We want it back.

After my first child died of SIDS at 9 weeks old, I asked my grief counselor, “how long will it take to get back to normal.” Her response hit me hard.

“This is the new normal.”

For us to get back to life as we knew it, 75% of the global population needs to be vaccinated.

Bloomberg’s new calculator shows how long it will take states and countries to vaccinate 75% of their populations—7 YEARS! [Source: Bloomberg.com]

It would appear that this is definitely the new normal.

Lessons from History

The good news is that this isn’t the first time our planet has suffered through a pandemic. These are the top 10 worst pandemics since the death of Jesus Christ.

(1981-2012) HIV/AIDS PANDEMIC – Death Toll: 36 million
(1968) FLU PANDEMIC – Death Toll: 1 million
(1956-1958) ASIAN FLU – Death Toll: 2 million
(1918) FLU PANDEMIC – Death Toll: 20 -50 million
(1910-1911) SIXTH CHOLERA PANDEMIC – Death Toll: 800,000+
(1889-1890) FLU PANDEMIC – Death Toll: 1 million
(1852–1860) THIRD CHOLERA PANDEMIC – Death Toll: 1 million
(1346-1353) THE BUBONIC BLACK DEATH – Death Toll: 75 – 200 million
(541-542) BUBONIC PLAGUE OF JUSTINIAN – Death Toll: 25 million
(165 AD) ANTONINE PLAGUE – Death Toll: 5 million
[Source: Mphonline.org]

What Now?

So what are we going to do about it?

We could accept that our nails will be a hot mess for the next several years. I personally don’t like that option.

Or we can accept the universal truth that change is inevitable.

We need to find new ways to decrease our stress levels, improve our home and work life, and improve our health. 

Since we can’t stop washing our hands and using hand sanitizers, we need to embrace the strategies that reverse the drying effects we experience.

We need to do intensive hydration treatments with a high-quality, jojoba wax ester-based nail oil, like Bliss Kiss™ and nitrile gloves to improve the strength and flexibility of the natural nail plate.

We need to use water-free balms and lotions to soothe our overwashed and hypersensitive skin.

And the best part? 

We need to wear polish to protect our nails from damaging water absorption.

Polish provides temporary strength to help our nails survive this crazy, brave new world.

If you found this article helpful, please share!

The post Why the Covid Pandemic is Destroying Our Nails first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

by Ana Seidel, Vitaly Solomonoff & Doug Schoon

Have you ever heard the expression, “The world is getting smaller?”

It’s true.

But…

The internet has become a double-edged sword.

We learn really amazing things from people we will never meet physically. Our lives are improved immensely.

But… we also learn really dangerous and destructive things. The “Russian” manicure is a technique that could cripple the global nail industry.

In this article you will learn:

• • Why the Russian Manicure is considered a medical procedure

• • What the skin looks like microscopically after electronic bits have been used to “buff” the skin

• • Why this manicure practice permanently damages the nails of over 90% of clients who receive this treatment

• • Global statistics revealing how the popularity of this deceptive manicure process will permanently deform the nails of millions of people.

• And how to protect yourself today

The Hidden Dangers of the ‘Russian’ Manicure

By Vitaly Solomonoff – Dermatologist, Cosmetic Chemist, International Nail Judge and Author.

‘Beauty is pain’ is the well-known quote from Voltaire’s play, La Bégueule (the prude woman). This manifests when women are ready to sacrifice everything on the journey to aesthetic perfection.

The Russian (Dry, Machine, E-file) Manicure Defined

The ‘Russian’ manicure—a variation on high-speed microdermabrasion with e-files, is seen as an effective contemporary method of removing unwanted living skin as part of the preparation process of a nail service.

It is seen to negate the need for clipping, removers or wooden sticks. However, there are many concerns surrounding this method.

The Function of the Matrix

Frankly speaking, we should not remove living skin surrounding the nail plate at all. The only exception would be in cases when excessive skin or hangnails can become a source of infection.

The skin is a secure and strong guard to the most sensitive and fragile structure—the nail matrix, which is the only layer of germinative cells. This is the innermost layer of the epidermis from which new tissue is constantly formed.

The function of the matrix is to produce keratin, the main substance of the fingernail. The nail matrix is so sensitive that factors of temperature, insignificant pressure, minor injuries, and skin damage lead to inflammation. These external factors may impact the formation of the normal healthy keratin in the nail plate.

There are also plenty of internal factors, such as health and skin conditions which can influence the process too. These factors include diabetes, psoriasis, and lung disorder, just to name a few.

The incorrect synthesis (creation) of the nail keratin always results when the nail grows. Changes in shape, structure, texture, color or even separation from the nail bed (onycholysis) are all symptoms of damage to the matrix.

The sad news is that all of these results are unpredictable yet can be seen immediately or months after chemical, biological, or mechanical traumatisation.

Everything we see on our nails is the result of the matrix’s function. In fact, when we talk nails we should consider the matrix.

Three Year Study – Shocking Permanent Damage

Two years ago, my team completed the study of more than 300 cases of volunteers who regularly undertook a manicure using this technique.

The study continued for 38 months (over 3 years) before we came to shocking results.

We found 91% of volunteers suffered symptoms of a damaged nail matrix or nail bed!

Symptoms included all signs of matrix/nail dystrophy from splitting, horizontal ridges, and slow nail growth.

Extreme cases reported painful neuropathy (nerve damage) and high sensitivity.

Less than 9% of cases were determined as safe and ‘successful.’

It was also discovered that infectious inflammation is a common issue with clients who have a compromised immune system—diabetes, etc.

This type of inflammation occurs even when the manicure is performed with sterilized implements.

Immediate Damage

Microscopic cracks in the skin that are done during this type of manicure are inseminated with microflora during the few hours after the procedure. After analysis, we concluded that the source of danger from using this technique includes:

• Vibration – Even imperceptible vibration injured cells and induces the local immune response.
• Traumatisation – Damage, over filing or invisible (to the naked eye) micro-injuries even when a nail tech is sure his/her technique is controllable.

All together, vibration and traumatization induce acute or chronic inflammation and a syndrome of repetitive trauma, which leads to nail dystrophy.

Do We Need Inflammation?

Did I mean ‘inflammation’ earlier? Yes, it was not a figurative expression.

We get used to thinking inflammation is something unpleasant, painful and related to infection.

Actually, inflammation is not a symptom of infection, but a part of the human immune response and is a protective reaction. It occurs every time living cells—and sometimes dead ones—are damaged.

The injured cell releases an alarm signal in the form of special molecules—cytokines. Then immune cells get a call, and with blood flow travel to the place where the organism has been injured.

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Along with the local immune cells, the cytokines begin a real battle against physical agents, chemical agents, or microorganisms.

Normally, inflammation leads to the healing and renewal of the tissue.

However, inflammation may end with either a positive or negative outcome.

• Positive effects used in many cosmetic procedures from chemical peels to pedicure initiate this reaction to renew skin.

• Negative effects include ineffective inflammation. For instance, micro-organisms overcoming the battle or when the process turns into prolonged or chronic inflammation. The two factors of inflammation, cytokines, and toxins, continuously attack normal tissue preventing tissue repair.

Acute inflammation is usually a short-term reaction accompanied by redness, itching, swelling, and pain.

Chronic inflammation may be invisible at the start and followed by deformity of the organs or tissues. Chronic inflammation can only be observed over time.

This is the case with the “Russian” manicure. The matrix area, nail bed, and surrounding skin are receiving constant, repetitive traumatization.

This repetitive trauma causes chronic inflammation does not allow for physiological tissue recovery.

The turnover cycle of skin is approximately 30 to 35 days. However, manicures can be performed more frequently.

It’s no wonder that this technique leads directly to various nail symptoms and undesirable conditions. Many symptoms are postponed and become evident only months after a single procedure.

Long Term Damage

The constant mechanical attacks performed on the top layers of skin pass alarm bell messages to underlying cells of the nail matrix. The chemical language of cytokines activates the immune system response.

Consequently, the frequent activation of the local immune system means chronic inflammation, which in turn affects matrix cells.

Education Matters

A deep understanding of the processes in live skin helps us develop correct techniques for any manicure system.

This requires special knowledge, training, and understanding of what happens to the skin and nails while under attack from the vibrating, sharp bits of e-files.

Regrettably, we have NOT found a safe mode for this technique.

E-files are magnificent tools so let’s use them for important occupations, not the manicure. In improperly untrained hands, e-files can be very dangerous.

Knowledge and advanced education are the ONLY way to make this service completely safe.

Let’s argue with Voltaire and prove it to our clients—beauty can be painless.

(Reprinted with permission from the author, Vitaly Solomonov and ScratchMagazine.co.uk)

The Russian Manicure Can Lead to Permanent Damage

By Doug Schoon, Internationally-recognized scientist, author and educator

We want everyone across the globe to be aware of the problems of the “Russian Manicure”.

Someone commented on my Facebook page about their concerns that many will not heed the warnings from experts and I agree.

Hopefully, this problem may be self-correcting.

When people who use these methods start seeing the reported problems associated with these types of manicures, hopefully, they’ll take notice and stop this dangerous practice.

Like Vitaly wrote, symptoms people will see or experience are:

• Excessive damage to the skin around the nail plate
• Excessive regrowth of hardened callus-like tissue
• Redness
• Pain
• Puffiness
• Weeping
• Water-blisters
• Itching
• Allergies

Not only can this method cause the expected hardening and rapid/excessive regrowth of tissue, but the damaged skin is also more likely to develop infections.

Product-related skin irritations or allergies are more likely as well.

Invaders beware—watch closely for these issues—and don’t blame the products.

Blame your techniques.

I’m already hearing of, and seeing these problems.

One of the biggest problems in the nail industry is that too many nail educators are teaching misinformation they learned in the past. They have NOT kept up with their education.

And… it’s getting worse, not better.

Pseudo Fame

Many people teaching this manicure preparation technique are well-known artists. Some mistakenly believe they know what they are talking about—but often they do not.

These educators are harming the nail industry with every class they teach!

Just because someone can bling out a nail, doesn’t mean they have a real understanding of the nail or using products and are following the manufacturers’ instructions.

“Internet famous” does NOT mean “knowledgeable”. It only means that they are artistically skilled.

There is a big difference! Don’t be fooled.

Sterilizing Is Not Enough

There is a potentially dangerous myth stating that sterile implements or electronic bits can’t cause infections.

What? Of course they can.

The “Russian Manicure” is considered an invasive manicure. Invasive manicures are prohibited in many states, provinces or countries because they damage skin and make it significantly more susceptible to infections.

This infection risk can last for many hours and perhaps for several days. The skin will remain susceptible to infection until the damage heals.

Cutting the skin that borders the nail plate increases the client’s risk of infections, even after they leave the salon. I recommend that you don’t do this.

Someone told me, “Well, I’ve never heard of that happening”.

Of course not! Who would openly admit they cut their clients skin around the nail plate and cause an infection? Yet, I’ve seen this occur many times!

A Medical Procedure

The use of an e-file to smooth, buff, or abrade the skin around the nail plate is considered microdermabrasion.

Many states in the United States of America restrict the use of the files to only the nail plate. Other states require special medical licenses.

In many places, nail technicians are not allowed to perform these services.

Check your local regulations and with your insurance company. This technique may not be covered by your insurance policy and can put you in serious financial risk.

Even calluses should not be completely removed from the skin due to the increased risk of infection.

Is It Worth An Arm Or A Leg?

The skin on the feet or palm of the hand is many times thicker than the nail fold surrounding the skin.

Infections in the skin around the fingernail can quickly spread to bone and result in amputation of a finger or hands.

This is not speculation!

It happens far too frequently and is a problem the nail industry must solve.

Manicures should be safe and not endanger the public’s health.

NEVER intentionally cut or abrade the skin around the nail plate. That’s trouble waiting to happen.

Permanent Allergies?

Credit: Orianasnails

It is even more foolish to place UV gel manicure products or other nail coatings directly against this damaged skin.

Damaged skin is far more likely to become irritated or develop permanent allergies to nail products. More trouble is waiting to happen. Don’t do it!

Protect the skin around your clients’ nails. Don’t invade it.

Educate your clients about the risk of any invasive procedures and advise them against letting anyone cut or abrade this thin and sensitive tissue.

Be Proactive!

I’ve published “Nail Structure and Product Chemistry”, as well as a series of three books called “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”, Volume 1-3.

I’m a nail scientist. My books are factual and based on scientific and medical research.

My opinion is based on over two decades of experience studying nail salons, products, services, and common practices.

Sadly, most nail technicians do not bother to read my books, which is why we are in this education mess.

The facts are there for those who want to learn them.

Knowledge is Power

In my view, if you are a nail educator, you MUST read all three of my “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon” books or it is highly likely you’re are teaching misinformation.

This means you are part of the problem.

If you are a consumer, learn what procedures are dangerous and don’t let a nail technician hurt you. You are the best advocate for your body.

Global Access

My books are easy to read and understand, so please help to be a part of the solution and save the industry from sinking any deeper.

These books are available around the world from Amazon, iTunes, and available in the Nook and Kobo formats. They are available as both printed and e-books. They are low cost, and easy to get.

Please read them. You are responsible to provide healthy and safe manicures to your clients.

The Ultimate Test

Before you consider taking a class from ANY nail educator FIRST ask them… have you read all three volumes of “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”?

Reprinted with permission from Doug Schoon

Global Statistics for 2017

As you’ll read below, the most startling information is how many countries do not require licensing.

This means that ANYONE can start a nail career with no training!

Educators are going to other countries teaching nail techniques without licenses to teach in those countries.

UNITED STATES

• Market Size: $8.53 billion
• 56,386 nail salons
• 439,751 nail professionals, 31% don’t work in a salon
• Ethnicity: 36% Caucasian, 56% Vietnamese, 8% other
• Licensing: Required in all states, except Connecticut

CANADA

• Market size: $5 billion (hair and nail salons)
• Licensing: Only in Manitoba, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, though outside of these jurisdictions some aspiring techs do still opt for formal education and training

MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA

• Market size: $138.2 billion (estimated between 2014 and 2020 for South America, Central America, and North America)
• Licensing: Varies by country, but typically minimal or nonexistent

UNITED KINGDOM

• Market size: Annual beauty spending is £876 (US$1,270) for women and £711 (US$1,031) for men
• Licensing: Inconsistent — some parts of London require licensing but each council makes its own rules; no government licensing outside of London

GERMANY  

• • Market size: €2.5 billion (US$2.8 billion)

• Licensing: None for manicures or pedicures; cosmetologists (hair and skin professionals) and podiatrists (those who specialize in the health of feet) do have licensing requirements

SOUTH AFRICA

• Market size: R25.3 billion (US$1.9 billion) for all cosmetics and personal care together
• Licensing: No government licensing; many nail schools but no standard curriculum

RUSSIA

• Market size (beauty): USD$14.6 billion (RUB 555.1 billion) in 2014
• Schooling: Certificate of Training Completion earned from nail school; no license required

INDIA

• Market size: $3.5 billion in 2015 (all professional salon services combined)
• Licensing: None required by the government; multinational organizations and nail brands offer their own certifications via designated training facilities

AUSTRALIA

• Market size: $541.2 million
• Schooling: Nail courses available at beauty schools but many nail professionals are self-taught; no government licensing

JAPAN

• Market size: 160 billion yen (US$1.4 billion)
• Licensing: Private licensing via Japanese Nailist Association and nail manufacturers; no government licensing

VIETNAM

• Market size: 931,000 VND (US$42) average annual per-woman spending on beauty services (includes hair, skin, eyebrows, nails, and other professional beauty services)
• Licensing: No government licensing; some schools issue certificates upon graduation

Statistics Source: NailsMag [https://files.nailsmag.com/Handouts/NABB2017-18stats-LR.pdf]

In Conclusion

We only get one body and it’s our responsibility to care for it through the decades.

We make choices daily that are healthy or destructive to our health and wellbeing.

And, we live in a world now where we can be educated and influenced by people all over the globe.

Primum Non-Nocere

First, do no harm…

As you’ve learned in this article, there are certain nail care and nail enhancement processes that should be done by nail professionals.

Others should only be done by medical professionals. The “Russian Manicure” is microdermabrasion and is a medical procedure.

As a nail professional, you are responsible to learn and practice safe nail care and enhancement techniques.

Your clients’ nails change over time.

As an artist, you are only as good as the canvas you prepare. Are you doing it right?

Are you adapting as new medical knowledge is discovered about nails?

Credit: artnikitina.ru

There is a phrase in medical education which often gets aired at the welcoming lecture to medical school: “50% of what we teach you over the next five years will be wrong, or inaccurate. Sadly, we don’t know which 50%”  [Source: Blog Postgraduate Medical Journal ]

Product chemistry changes over time.

Are you learning from the product manufacturers regularly? What you learned in nail school may be very out of date.

You have a responsibility to take continuing education courses to stay at the top of your field.

You owe that to the health of your clients’ nails.

Caveat Emptor

Let the buyer beware…

As a consumer, you are responsible to know what nail preparation procedures will harm your body.

Credit: Crazynails_studio

Now it’s necessary to educate yourself.

You know the names and functions of your muscles, bones, and internal organs. You need to know the names and functions of the parts of your nails.

You decide with your money.

Do not exchange your hard earned money to let someone potentially permanently damage your nails.

If it hurts, make them stop. If you bleed, make them stop.

Do not let a nail professional hurt you because you “don’t want to hurt their feelings.”

And, do not assume that they are doing things because “they have more education.” A lot of them don’t.

Since the world is getting smaller, we owe it to ourselves and each other to keep it safer. 

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The post The Dangers of the Russian Manicure first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.