Nail Anatomy

Authors: Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

Nail Anatomy – The Different Parts of the Fingernail

Do you know where your cuticle is? Or your hyponychium? Most people don’t.

Not only is the general public confused about the names for the parts of the natural nail, but many nail technicians are not able to name the various major parts and know their function.

Let’s change this today.

Matrix

Where new nail plate cells are created and the nail plate begins to form.

Lunula

Lunula

A bluish-white, opaque area that is visible through the nail plate. This area is the front part of the nail matrix. Sometimes, it’s called the “moon.”

The lunula is the front part of the matrix we can see, or in other words, the visible matrix.

Not all fingers have a visible lunula. Usually, it is easiest to find a lunula on a thumb or index finger.

Many people think that they would like to have lunula’s, but in fact, you really don’t.

Since it is the exposed portion of the matrix, this area is not protected by the eponychium. It is easy bruised with every day life tasks.

Those bruises show up as little white marks in the nail plate.

Eponychium

Living skin at the base of the nail plate that covers the matrix area. This should NOT be confused with the “cuticle”.

Proximal Fold of the Eponychium

Healthy Proximal Fold

A tight band of living tissue that most people incorrectly think is their “cuticle”.

Since this skin dries out easily, people are quick to clip this skin believing that it’s not necessary.

Please, please, please…DO NOT CUT THIS SKIN!

The proximal fold is a required guardian seal that prevents germs and bacteria from getting to the nail matrix, where new cells are created.

I always know when girls are cutting. Their entire cuticle line is red and inflamed. Basically, their eponychium is infected all the time.

 

If you go to a salon for a manicure, do not ever let your nail tech cut this skin.

The best way to keep this skin soft and tight to the nail plate is with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based penetrating nail and cuticle oil.

Cuticle

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

CLICK PICTURE FOR LARGER DETAIL

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and eponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the matrix area.

The cuticle pulls away from the underside of the eponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

The cuticle should NOT be confused with the “eponychium”.

Since polish and nail enhancements don’t bond to skin on the nail plate, the cuticle should be properly removed with gentle scraping only.

Nippers can’t remove the cuticle. It’s physically impossible.

Nail Plate

Composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid, protective layer over the underlying soft tissue.

The nail plate should NOT be confused with the nail “bed”.

The average person has 50 layers of keratin cells that make up the nail plate.

The thickness of your nails is determined by the size of your matrix.

Not everyone’s matrix is the same size. People with thin nails have a small matrix and will have less than 50 layers. People with thick nails have a large matrix and have more than 50 layers.

Nail Bed

The soft, pink tissue that sits underneath and supports the nail plate while it grows. The nail bed should NOT be confused with the nail “plate”.

CLICK FOR MORE DETAIL

Hyponychium

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

A soft tissue seal underneath the extended “free” edge of the nail plate whose purpose is to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

Onychodermal Band

A band of bunched up tissue located behind the hyponychium.

This band improves the ability of the hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The onychodermal band works in the same way as the proximal fold on the top surface of the nail.

When looking at your bare nails, you can see this darker band of skin right before your nail plate leaves the nail bed to become your free edge.

Solehorn Cuticle

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The solehorn cuticle pulls away from the underside of the hyponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

Bone

Bone supports and shapes both the nail matrix and nail bed. The flat or curved shape of your nails is determined by the shape of your fingertip bone.

Knowledge is Power

Knowing your nail anatomy is important for the home manicurist and can actually help you find an excellent nail professional if you’re wanting to be pampered. 

Ask her how she removes the cuticle.

If she shows you nippers instead of a spoon shaped remover or curette, you’ll know to politely walk out and find someone new.

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post NAIL ANATOMY – Different Parts of Fingernail first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Nail Anatomy

Authors: Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

Nail Anatomy – The Different Parts of the Fingernail

Do you know where your cuticle is? Or your hyponychium? Most people don’t.

Not only is the general public confused about the names for the parts of the natural nail, but many nail technicians are not able to name the various major parts and know their function.

Let’s change this today.

Matrix

Where new nail plate cells are created and the nail plate begins to form.

Lunula

Lunula

A bluish-white, opaque area that is visible through the nail plate. This area is the front part of the nail matrix. Sometimes, it’s called the “moon.”

The lunula is the front part of the matrix we can see, or in other words, the visible matrix.

Not all fingers have a visible lunula. Usually, it is easiest to find a lunula on a thumb or index finger.

Many people think that they would like to have lunula’s, but in fact, you really don’t.

Since it is the exposed portion of the matrix, this area is not protected by the proximal nail fold. It is easy bruised with every day life tasks.

Those bruises show up as little white marks in the nail plate.

Eponychium

Living skin at the base of the nail plate that covers the matrix area. This should NOT be confused with the “cuticle”.

The Keratinized Proximal Nail Fold (The PNF)

A tight band of living tissue that most people incorrectly think is their “cuticle”.

Since this skin dries out easily, people are quick to clip this skin believing that it’s not necessary.

Please, please, please…DO NOT CUT THIS SKIN!

The proximal fold is a required guardian seal that prevents germs and bacteria from getting to the nail matrix, where new cells are created.

I always know when girls are cutting. Their entire cuticle line is red and inflamed. Basically, their PNF is infected all the time.

If you go to a salon for a manicure, do not ever let your nail tech cut this skin.

The best way to keep this skin soft and tight to the nail plate is with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based penetrating nail and cuticle oil.

Cuticle

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

As the nail cells are created and pushed forward, the nail plate literally rips the bottom layer of eponychium cells with it.

It is these cells that are the cuticle.

Cuticle cells also tightly grip the proximal nail fold. This creates a nice, tight guardian seal that prevents bacteria and germs from damaging or destroying your nail matrix.

The cuticle should NOT be confused with the “eponychium”  [or proximal nail fold]. ~Doug Schoon, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

Since polish and nail enhancements don’t bond to skin on the nail plate, the cuticle should be properly removed with gentle scraping only.

Nippers can’t remove the cuticle. It’s physically impossible.

Nail Plate

Composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid, protective layer over the underlying soft tissue.

The nail plate should NOT be confused with the nail “bed”.

The average person has 50 layers of keratin cells that make up the nail plate.

The thickness of your nails is determined by the size of your matrix.

Not everyone’s matrix is the same size. People with thin nails have a small matrix and will have less than 50 layers. People with thick nails have a large matrix and have more than 50 layers.

Nail Bed

The soft, pink tissue that sits underneath and supports the nail plate while it grows. The nail bed should NOT be confused with the nail “plate”.

Hyponychium

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

A soft tissue seal underneath the extended “free” edge of the nail plate whose purpose is to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

Onychodermal Band

A band of bunched up tissue located behind the hyponychium.

This band improves the ability of the hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The onychodermal band works in the same way as the proximal fold on the top surface of the nail.

When looking at your bare nails, you can see this darker band of skin right before your nail plate leaves the nail bed to become your free edge.

Solehorn Cuticle

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The solehorn cuticle pulls away from the underside of the hyponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

Bone

Bone supports and shapes both the nail matrix and nail bed. The flat or curved shape of your nails is determined by the shape of your fingertip bone.

Knowledge is Power

Knowing your nail anatomy is important for the home manicurist and can actually help you find an excellent nail professional if you’re wanting to be pampered. 

Ask them how they removes the cuticle.

If they shows you nippers instead of a spoon shaped remover or curette, you’ll know to politely walk out and find someone new.

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post NAIL ANATOMY – Different Parts of Fingernail first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

by Ana Seidel, Vitaly Solomonoff & Doug Schoon

Have you ever heard the expression, “The world is getting smaller?”

It’s true.

But…

The internet has become a double-edged sword.

We learn really amazing things from people we will never meet physically. Our lives are improved immensely.

But… we also learn really dangerous and destructive things. The “Russian” manicure is a technique that could cripple the global nail industry.

In this article you will learn:

• • Why the Russian Manicure is considered a medical procedure

• • What the skin looks like microscopically after electronic bits have been used to “buff” the skin

• • Why this manicure practice permanently damages the nails of over 90% of clients who receive this treatment

• • Global statistics revealing how the popularity of this deceptive manicure process will permanently deform the nails of millions of people.

• And how to protect yourself today

The Hidden Dangers of the ‘Russian’ Manicure

By Vitaly Solomonoff – Dermatologist, Cosmetic Chemist, International Nail Judge and Author.

‘Beauty is pain’ is the well-known quote from Voltaire’s play, La Bégueule (the prude woman). This manifests when women are ready to sacrifice everything on the journey to aesthetic perfection.

The Russian (Dry, Machine, E-file) Manicure Defined

The ‘Russian’ manicure—a variation on high-speed microdermabrasion with e-files, is seen as an effective contemporary method of removing unwanted living skin as part of the preparation process of a nail service.

It is seen to negate the need for clipping, removers or wooden sticks. However, there are many concerns surrounding this method.

The Function of the Matrix

Frankly speaking, we should not remove living skin surrounding the nail plate at all. The only exception would be in cases when excessive skin or hangnails can become a source of infection.

The skin is a secure and strong guard to the most sensitive and fragile structure—the nail matrix, which is the only layer of germinative cells. This is the innermost layer of the epidermis from which new tissue is constantly formed.

The function of the matrix is to produce keratin, the main substance of the fingernail. The nail matrix is so sensitive that factors of temperature, insignificant pressure, minor injuries, and skin damage lead to inflammation. These external factors may impact the formation of the normal healthy keratin in the nail plate.

There are also plenty of internal factors, such as health and skin conditions which can influence the process too. These factors include diabetes, psoriasis, and lung disorder, just to name a few.

The incorrect synthesis (creation) of the nail keratin always results when the nail grows. Changes in shape, structure, texture, color or even separation from the nail bed (onycholysis) are all symptoms of damage to the matrix.

The sad news is that all of these results are unpredictable yet can be seen immediately or months after chemical, biological, or mechanical traumatisation.

Everything we see on our nails is the result of the matrix’s function. In fact, when we talk nails we should consider the matrix.

Three Year Study – Shocking Permanent Damage

Two years ago, my team completed the study of more than 300 cases of volunteers who regularly undertook a manicure using this technique.

The study continued for 38 months (over 3 years) before we came to shocking results.

We found 91% of volunteers suffered symptoms of a damaged nail matrix or nail bed!

Symptoms included all signs of matrix/nail dystrophy from splitting, horizontal ridges, and slow nail growth.

Extreme cases reported painful neuropathy (nerve damage) and high sensitivity.

Less than 9% of cases were determined as safe and ‘successful.’

It was also discovered that infectious inflammation is a common issue with clients who have a compromised immune system—diabetes, etc.

This type of inflammation occurs even when the manicure is performed with sterilized implements.

Immediate Damage

Microscopic cracks in the skin that are done during this type of manicure are inseminated with microflora during the few hours after the procedure. After analysis, we concluded that the source of danger from using this technique includes:

• Vibration – Even imperceptible vibration injured cells and induces the local immune response.
• Traumatisation – Damage, over filing or invisible (to the naked eye) micro-injuries even when a nail tech is sure his/her technique is controllable.

All together, vibration and traumatization induce acute or chronic inflammation and a syndrome of repetitive trauma, which leads to nail dystrophy.

Do We Need Inflammation?

Did I mean ‘inflammation’ earlier? Yes, it was not a figurative expression.

We get used to thinking inflammation is something unpleasant, painful and related to infection.

Actually, inflammation is not a symptom of infection, but a part of the human immune response and is a protective reaction. It occurs every time living cells—and sometimes dead ones—are damaged.

The injured cell releases an alarm signal in the form of special molecules—cytokines. Then immune cells get a call, and with blood flow travel to the place where the organism has been injured.

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Along with the local immune cells, the cytokines begin a real battle against physical agents, chemical agents, or microorganisms.

Normally, inflammation leads to the healing and renewal of the tissue.

However, inflammation may end with either a positive or negative outcome.

• Positive effects used in many cosmetic procedures from chemical peels to pedicure initiate this reaction to renew skin.

• Negative effects include ineffective inflammation. For instance, micro-organisms overcoming the battle or when the process turns into prolonged or chronic inflammation. The two factors of inflammation, cytokines, and toxins, continuously attack normal tissue preventing tissue repair.

Acute inflammation is usually a short-term reaction accompanied by redness, itching, swelling, and pain.

Chronic inflammation may be invisible at the start and followed by deformity of the organs or tissues. Chronic inflammation can only be observed over time.

This is the case with the “Russian” manicure. The matrix area, nail bed, and surrounding skin are receiving constant, repetitive traumatization.

This repetitive trauma causes chronic inflammation does not allow for physiological tissue recovery.

The turnover cycle of skin is approximately 30 to 35 days. However, manicures can be performed more frequently.

It’s no wonder that this technique leads directly to various nail symptoms and undesirable conditions. Many symptoms are postponed and become evident only months after a single procedure.

Long Term Damage

The constant mechanical attacks performed on the top layers of skin pass alarm bell messages to underlying cells of the nail matrix. The chemical language of cytokines activates the immune system response.

Consequently, the frequent activation of the local immune system means chronic inflammation, which in turn affects matrix cells.

Education Matters

A deep understanding of the processes in live skin helps us develop correct techniques for any manicure system.

This requires special knowledge, training, and understanding of what happens to the skin and nails while under attack from the vibrating, sharp bits of e-files.

Regrettably, we have NOT found a safe mode for this technique.

E-files are magnificent tools so let’s use them for important occupations, not the manicure. In improperly untrained hands, e-files can be very dangerous.

Knowledge and advanced education are the ONLY way to make this service completely safe.

Let’s argue with Voltaire and prove it to our clients—beauty can be painless.

(Reprinted with permission from the author, Vitaly Solomonov and ScratchMagazine.co.uk)

The Russian Manicure Can Lead to Permanent Damage

By Doug Schoon, Internationally-recognized scientist, author and educator

We want everyone across the globe to be aware of the problems of the “Russian Manicure”.

Someone commented on my Facebook page about their concerns that many will not heed the warnings from experts and I agree.

Hopefully, this problem may be self-correcting.

When people who use these methods start seeing the reported problems associated with these types of manicures, hopefully, they’ll take notice and stop this dangerous practice.

Like Vitaly wrote, symptoms people will see or experience are:

• Excessive damage to the skin around the nail plate
• Excessive regrowth of hardened callus-like tissue
• Redness
• Pain
• Puffiness
• Weeping
• Water-blisters
• Itching
• Allergies

Not only can this method cause the expected hardening and rapid/excessive regrowth of tissue, but the damaged skin is also more likely to develop infections.

Product-related skin irritations or allergies are more likely as well.

Invaders beware—watch closely for these issues—and don’t blame the products.

Blame your techniques.

I’m already hearing of, and seeing these problems.

One of the biggest problems in the nail industry is that too many nail educators are teaching misinformation they learned in the past. They have NOT kept up with their education.

And… it’s getting worse, not better.

Pseudo Fame

Many people teaching this manicure preparation technique are well-known artists. Some mistakenly believe they know what they are talking about—but often they do not.

These educators are harming the nail industry with every class they teach!

Just because someone can bling out a nail, doesn’t mean they have a real understanding of the nail or using products and are following the manufacturers’ instructions.

“Internet famous” does NOT mean “knowledgeable”. It only means that they are artistically skilled.

There is a big difference! Don’t be fooled.

Sterilizing Is Not Enough

There is a potentially dangerous myth stating that sterile implements or electronic bits can’t cause infections.

What? Of course they can.

The “Russian Manicure” is considered an invasive manicure. Invasive manicures are prohibited in many states, provinces or countries because they damage skin and make it significantly more susceptible to infections.

This infection risk can last for many hours and perhaps for several days. The skin will remain susceptible to infection until the damage heals.

Cutting the skin that borders the nail plate increases the client’s risk of infections, even after they leave the salon. I recommend that you don’t do this.

Someone told me, “Well, I’ve never heard of that happening”.

Of course not! Who would openly admit they cut their clients skin around the nail plate and cause an infection? Yet, I’ve seen this occur many times!

A Medical Procedure

The use of an e-file to smooth, buff, or abrade the skin around the nail plate is considered microdermabrasion.

Many states in the United States of America restrict the use of the files to only the nail plate. Other states require special medical licenses.

In many places, nail technicians are not allowed to perform these services.

Check your local regulations and with your insurance company. This technique may not be covered by your insurance policy and can put you in serious financial risk.

Even calluses should not be completely removed from the skin due to the increased risk of infection.

Is It Worth An Arm Or A Leg?

The skin on the feet or palm of the hand is many times thicker than the nail fold surrounding the skin.

Infections in the skin around the fingernail can quickly spread to bone and result in amputation of a finger or hands.

This is not speculation!

It happens far too frequently and is a problem the nail industry must solve.

Manicures should be safe and not endanger the public’s health.

NEVER intentionally cut or abrade the skin around the nail plate. That’s trouble waiting to happen.

Permanent Allergies?

Credit: Orianasnails

It is even more foolish to place UV gel manicure products or other nail coatings directly against this damaged skin.

Damaged skin is far more likely to become irritated or develop permanent allergies to nail products. More trouble is waiting to happen. Don’t do it!

Protect the skin around your clients’ nails. Don’t invade it.

Educate your clients about the risk of any invasive procedures and advise them against letting anyone cut or abrade this thin and sensitive tissue.

Be Proactive!

I’ve published “Nail Structure and Product Chemistry”, as well as a series of three books called “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”, Volume 1-3.

I’m a nail scientist. My books are factual and based on scientific and medical research.

My opinion is based on over two decades of experience studying nail salons, products, services, and common practices.

Sadly, most nail technicians do not bother to read my books, which is why we are in this education mess.

The facts are there for those who want to learn them.

Knowledge is Power

In my view, if you are a nail educator, you MUST read all three of my “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon” books or it is highly likely you’re are teaching misinformation.

This means you are part of the problem.

If you are a consumer, learn what procedures are dangerous and don’t let a nail technician hurt you. You are the best advocate for your body.

Global Access

My books are easy to read and understand, so please help to be a part of the solution and save the industry from sinking any deeper.

These books are available around the world from Amazon, iTunes, and available in the Nook and Kobo formats. They are available as both printed and e-books. They are low cost, and easy to get.

Please read them. You are responsible to provide healthy and safe manicures to your clients.

The Ultimate Test

Before you consider taking a class from ANY nail educator FIRST ask them… have you read all three volumes of “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”?

Reprinted with permission from Doug Schoon

Global Statistics for 2017

As you’ll read below, the most startling information is how many countries do not require licensing.

This means that ANYONE can start a nail career with no training!

Educators are going to other countries teaching nail techniques without licenses to teach in those countries.

UNITED STATES

• Market Size: $8.53 billion
• 56,386 nail salons
• 439,751 nail professionals, 31% don’t work in a salon
• Ethnicity: 36% Caucasian, 56% Vietnamese, 8% other
• Licensing: Required in all states, except Connecticut

CANADA

• Market size: $5 billion (hair and nail salons)
• Licensing: Only in Manitoba, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, though outside of these jurisdictions some aspiring techs do still opt for formal education and training

MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA

• Market size: $138.2 billion (estimated between 2014 and 2020 for South America, Central America, and North America)
• Licensing: Varies by country, but typically minimal or nonexistent

UNITED KINGDOM

• Market size: Annual beauty spending is £876 (US$1,270) for women and £711 (US$1,031) for men
• Licensing: Inconsistent — some parts of London require licensing but each council makes its own rules; no government licensing outside of London

GERMANY  

• • Market size: €2.5 billion (US$2.8 billion)

• Licensing: None for manicures or pedicures; cosmetologists (hair and skin professionals) and podiatrists (those who specialize in the health of feet) do have licensing requirements

SOUTH AFRICA

• Market size: R25.3 billion (US$1.9 billion) for all cosmetics and personal care together
• Licensing: No government licensing; many nail schools but no standard curriculum

RUSSIA

• Market size (beauty): USD$14.6 billion (RUB 555.1 billion) in 2014
• Schooling: Certificate of Training Completion earned from nail school; no license required

INDIA

• Market size: $3.5 billion in 2015 (all professional salon services combined)
• Licensing: None required by the government; multinational organizations and nail brands offer their own certifications via designated training facilities

AUSTRALIA

• Market size: $541.2 million
• Schooling: Nail courses available at beauty schools but many nail professionals are self-taught; no government licensing

JAPAN

• Market size: 160 billion yen (US$1.4 billion)
• Licensing: Private licensing via Japanese Nailist Association and nail manufacturers; no government licensing

VIETNAM

• Market size: 931,000 VND (US$42) average annual per-woman spending on beauty services (includes hair, skin, eyebrows, nails, and other professional beauty services)
• Licensing: No government licensing; some schools issue certificates upon graduation

Statistics Source: NailsMag [https://files.nailsmag.com/Handouts/NABB2017-18stats-LR.pdf]

In Conclusion

We only get one body and it’s our responsibility to care for it through the decades.

We make choices daily that are healthy or destructive to our health and wellbeing.

And, we live in a world now where we can be educated and influenced by people all over the globe.

Primum Non-Nocere

First, do no harm…

As you’ve learned in this article, there are certain nail care and nail enhancement processes that should be done by nail professionals.

Others should only be done by medical professionals. The “Russian Manicure” is microdermabrasion and is a medical procedure.

As a nail professional, you are responsible to learn and practice safe nail care and enhancement techniques.

Your clients’ nails change over time.

As an artist, you are only as good as the canvas you prepare. Are you doing it right?

Are you adapting as new medical knowledge is discovered about nails?

Credit: artnikitina.ru

There is a phrase in medical education which often gets aired at the welcoming lecture to medical school: “50% of what we teach you over the next five years will be wrong, or inaccurate. Sadly, we don’t know which 50%”  [Source: Blog Postgraduate Medical Journal ]

Product chemistry changes over time.

Are you learning from the product manufacturers regularly? What you learned in nail school may be very out of date.

You have a responsibility to take continuing education courses to stay at the top of your field.

You owe that to the health of your clients’ nails.

Caveat Emptor

Let the buyer beware…

As a consumer, you are responsible to know what nail preparation procedures will harm your body.

Credit: Crazynails_studio

Now it’s necessary to educate yourself.

You know the names and functions of your muscles, bones, and internal organs. You need to know the names and functions of the parts of your nails.

You decide with your money.

Do not exchange your hard earned money to let someone potentially permanently damage your nails.

If it hurts, make them stop. If you bleed, make them stop.

Do not let a nail professional hurt you because you “don’t want to hurt their feelings.”

And, do not assume that they are doing things because “they have more education.” A lot of them don’t.

Since the world is getting smaller, we owe it to ourselves and each other to keep it safer. 

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post The Dangers of the Russian Manicure first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Excerpt from Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon, Volume II
Available on Amazon and iTunes- July 2017

In this article, I’ll explain what a Russian Manicure is and why you never want one if your nail professional doesn’t have the correct training and appropriate license.

Since knowledge is power, I’ll also give you tips to help you become a better consumer when visiting a salon.

What Is It?

Some people around the globe are teaching a highly risky technique that goes by several different names including, the “Russian” or “Equipment” or “E-File” manicure. 

It doesn’t matter what it’s called, they are essentially the same.

The process is to use an electronic file with very fine bits to file off the living skin around the nail plate. They also file off the dead cuticle skin on the nail plate.

The skin that everyone incorrectly thinks is the cuticle is called the proximal fold of the eponychium.

The proximal fold, lateral side walls, and the hyponychium create the 4 required guardian seals to protect the nail bed and matrix from harmful germs and bacteria.

We never want to cut or sand down live skin!

I believe the Russian manicure techniques are a potential threat to the entire nail industry.

Here’s Why

These are procedures that can be “invasive” and they promote the intentional cutting and/or abrasion of the living skin surrounding the nail plate.

Those who teach these Russian manicure techniques don’t use the term “abrasion.” Instead, they use nicer marketing terms like “buffing” or “polishing.”  

Also, they claim to be removing pterygium, which would be incorrect. The pterygium is on the underside of the nail tip.

What these nail technicians are doing is removing the skin from the proximal nail fold and side walls.

To claim that the “nails look prettier” in my view is a poor reason to jeopardize a client’s health when safer ways to perform a manicure exist.

Cutting/abrading damages the skin and creates the very problem manicures are supposed to solve.

The result is more damaged skin that later must be cut or abraded away. It’s like a dog chasing its own tail!  

Many people report the skin around the nail plate grows back thicker after the Russian manicure, so the nail tech needs to continue the method regularly, just to keep up.  

The Crushing Danger

Nail salons are already under intense scrutiny and don’t need the media or salon-bashing activist groups using this as another reason to avoid salons.

This is a troubling concern.

Many people will be frightened by such techniques. This will make more people afraid of nail technicians and their services rather than enjoy the many positive benefits that salons offer.

Some nail techs justify their actions by claiming to use only sterile or disposable implements. They naively believe this prevents infections. Wrong!

Whenever the living skin is cut or abraded, the damaged area is more susceptible to infection for many hours or even days. The potential risk of infection will remain until the body heals.

One proponent of these methods argued to me, “I’ve never heard of that happening.”

Well, of course not!

Not many people would openly admit they cut a client’s skin and caused an infection.

Schools and teachers who promote these methods don’t check back with their students on a regular basis, so how could they know about when the methods they teach are being misused?

I’ve seen these types of nail tech inflicted infections occur many times.

Also, when this thin skin is damaged, it becomes more susceptible to irritation and may lead to permanent allergic reactions to nail coating products.

How?

Many people who use this nail preparation technique place nail coating products directly onto or up against the damaged skin. This also drastically increases the client’s risk for adverse skin reactions.

Some teachers say the bits are not abrasive and are smooth. Think about it. If they were not abrading the skin, then they would have no effect.

It is true that these bits may be less abrasive than the bits uses to file down acrylic nail enhancements.

But, any bit spinning at thousands of RPM and placed against the skin surface will abrade the skin.

This abrasion can reduce the skin’s effectiveness as a germ and bacteria barrier. It also makes it easier for infections and adverse skin reactions to occur.

Fools Rush in Where Angels Fear to Tread

Another person asked me, “if it’s such a risk, why are so many doing it?

Just because some people do this technique doesn’t mean it’s safe.

This method should NOT be taught to the masses via Internet videos or online classes. Yet this is what’s being done weekly.

Too many people are “jumping on the bandwagon” without considering the consequences to their clients or their business.  

Nor do I think so-called Russian manicure certification classes are the answer.

Many students of these courses often disregard important precautions and will return to the salon and do it “their way.” Then they will teach other nail technicians “their way” and those nail technicians will also do it “their way.”

Soon, the precautions will be forgotten and this could have unforeseen consequences that could harm clients and may be disastrous for the reputation of the nail industry.

Interestingly, many people who do these services claim they do it the safe way and others do not. Isn’t that the “pot calling the kettle black?”

Are You Licensed?

Even more importantly, using an e-file to smooth this skin is considered microdermabrasion. In many regions, microdermabrasion is restricted only to those with special licenses beyond nail technician licensing.

For instance, in the USA an esthetician license (or sometimes a cosmetology license) is required to perform microdermabrasion.

Ready To Fall?

I can walk on a rope that is one inch from the ground. I won’t get hurt if I fall.

But what if I try to walk on the same rope five feet above the ground? I could get seriously injured!  

An expert tightrope walker doesn’t worry about falling from five feet—they are experts.

The low rope allows a lot of room for error for non-experts, while the high rope allows “little room for error”.
When high-speed bits are used and manicures become motorized, this allows little room for error.

The skin around the nails is nothing like that on the palm of the hand or bottom of the foot. It is much thinner and easier to damage.

Besides, even calluses should not be filed smooth, since this also increases the risks of infections. A protective layer of callus should always be left behind.

Some e-file experts do understand how to prevent injuries. But this is not such an easy thing to teach to non-experts, especially after just a few hours of instruction (or even a few days), which is what most classes offer.

In Conclusion

NEVER intentionally cut or abrade the skin around the nail plate. That’s trouble waiting to happen!

Doug Schoon, Author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

NEVER place any nail coating product directly against the skin, especially damaged skin!

This is, even more, trouble waiting to happen. It increases the risks of skin irritation and permanent allergies to these products.

Better Solutions

Protect and pamper the skin around your client’s nails—don’t invade it.  

Teach them that their dry skin can be hydrated with a high-quality nail oil blend. It’s a simple and non-invasive solution.

Continue using the appropriate methods to properly remove the cuticle.

Explain to your clients and friends why they should avoid this Russian manicure technique as well.

We need you to help spread the word. Thank you! ~Doug Schoon

For more critically important advice about nail care, order Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon, Volume II, available on Amazon and iTunes- July 2017

The post The Russian Manicure – Is It Dangerous? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

 by Doug Schoon

Peeling Nails

Trying to figure out why your nails are peeling, and how to stop it, can be very frustrating.

In this article, you will learn…

• How peeling off polish can damage the nail plate
• The proper way to remove nail enhancements
• Thirteen (13) solutions to help prevent peeling

This article about peeling nails is an excerpt from my 74th episode (available June 2017) of Face to Face with Doug Schoon video series.

ASK DOUG

My nails are very strong and healthy, and they can grow very long, but as soon as I use nail polish they become brittle and start peeling. They continue to do so until all “old nail” has grown out and the whole nail is replaced.

I have tried 5-free, 7-free and water based polish, and I have also tried different removers. But no matter what, my nails get ruined every time I use polish. Do you have any suggestions of what I should do? ~Eva

ANSWER

Eva, here are my top suggestions for addressing nail plate surface peeling.

Peeling Off Polish

Never peel nail polish from your nail plate. This will weaken the surface layers. 

These weakened surface layers will eventually peel away when they reach the free edge. It may be months later, so you might have forgotten what you did.  

For example; if you peel nail polish from your nails in May, expect the cell layers on the top-side of the free edge will peel in until September when those damaged nail cells finally grow off the free edge.

Doing this repeatedly can lead to a state of constant surface peeling.

Some nail coatings adhere to the nail plate better the longer you wear them. 

Ana’s photo to the right is a perfect example. She peeled her well bonded polish off while watching a movie.

It took 4 months for the damage to grow out.

Long wearing nail polish has greater adhesion, so these are more likely to harm the surface when forcibly peeled off. 

Proper Removal

Gently remove all nail coatings, without the use of any force, e.g. no peeling, scraping, biting, etc.

The is no such thing as gentle peeling or scraping, so don’t fool yourself into thinking you “lightly scrape” or “peel carefully”.

This is extremely important when removing soak-off gel polish.

It can take up to 30 minutes to completely dissolve the coating!

I have more electron microscope examples in my article about removing gel polish properly.

Water Damage

Keep your hands out of water.

Each time you saturate the nail plate, surface layers swell apart and separate. 

Repeated soaking and drying cycles can weaken the bond between the upper layer and lower layers.

Washing Hands 

Don’t wash your hands too often. Yes, you can wash your hands too much!

More than ten (10) times a day can be hard on nails and skin. Many wash their hands 20 times a day or more.

That’s just too much.

Soaps, cleansers and detergents can eventually strip away substances that help hold the surface cells to the underlying cells and this can lead to peeling.

The same can occur when nails are exposed to cleaning solvents.

Free Polish?

It doesn’t matter if the polish is 5-free or 99-free, that’s just “marketing” and doesn’t say how good or how safe a nail polish is.

Don’t think this is the problem or the solution to peeling nail plates.

Quality Counts

Buy high quality products.  Less expensive nail polish are less expensive for a reason. They often use inferior ingredients or are poorly formulated.

Nail Length 

Keep nails shorter.

The longer the nail plate, the more flexible the free edge, the more likely the polish will peel.  This is especially true for those with thin, flexible nail plates.

Wrap Edges 

Wrap the free edge by wrapping the base and topcoat around the free edge to the underside and give it some extra protection.

But, avoid skin contact as much as possible. Repeated contact to the tissue can cause skin irritation.

Gloves

Treat your nails like jewels. Don’t use them as tools.

Wear gloves when digging or working with your hands. This is especially important when working with cleaning supplies.

Sun Exposure

Protect nails from the sun. 

The nail plate has a high natural SPF, so the nail bed is protected from UV exposure, but that means the upper layers absorb the UV.

Long periods of excessive sunlight can weaken surface layers and cause them to come apart. 

Buffing Destroys

Don’t over file or buff the nail plate.

Too much filing or buffing thins the nail and it is much harder for polish to adhere to thin nails, than thicker nails.

Don’t try to fill away so-called “ridges”. The nail plate can’t grow ridges. The thinner, weaker part of the nail plate is the grooves.

Therefore, filing the plate smooth reduces and thins the entire nail plate to the match the thinness of the deepest groove.

That’s trouble waiting to happen—so don’t do it.

Use Nail Oil

Nail oils can help reduce surface brittleness and help toughen the bonds between the surface and lower layers of nail cells, but make sure to remove surface oils before apply any nail coating.

Nail oils also absorb into the plate to make it more resistant to excessive water absorption.

Polish Removers

Solvents can remove surface oils and may also leach out substances that help to cement nail cell layers together.

Occasional (once a week) use of solvent-containing polish removers won’t have much effect on normal nails.

But they may have a noticeable effect on plates that have weakened adhesion due to other factors described above.  

Allergies?

Peeling nail plates are never a sign of allergic reactions.

The nail plate is not living and does NOT have an immune system, so allergic reactions are not possible.  

Exceptions?

Doug Schoon, Author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

Eva, there are always weird things that happen that don’t fall within the norm, which means they don’t apply to most people.

It may be possible that your nail layers are barely held together and solvents (acetone) are disrupting the weak bonds that exist.

Make sure that you are following all my suggestions above and you will have beautiful, healthy nails that make you proud.

Learn More

For more nail care education, you can subscribe to my video series at www.FacetoFaceWithDougSchoon.com

To receive 25% off the subscription rate, enter “nailcarehq” in the discount code box at the bottom of the page.

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post ASK DOUG: Peeling Nails – Is Polish Causing It? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

by Doug Schoon

Carcinogens in Nail Polish

ASK DOUG

Hi Doug, I keep hearing that the chemicals in polish, gel and acrylic nail products are carcinogenic. Is this true? I’m afraid of getting cancer? ~Chris

ANSWER

Do the words acetaldehyde and formaldehyde frighten you?

Most people would say yes, especially since California requires a warning that nail polish contains formaldehyde and could cause cancer. They don’t have a clue that “formaldehyde resin” is not formaldehyde.

Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin is a polymer formed from the reaction of toluene sulfonamide and formaldehyde. Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin is used in nail enamel products. It is a soft resin material which, when combined with nitrocellulose, forms a tough, shiny film on nails. [Source: Cosmeticsinfo.org]

Are You Eating Your Fruits and Veggies?

Acetaldehyde and formaldehyde are “naturally occurring carcinogens” found in most fruits and many vegetables.  They exist even in “organically grown and certified” foods.

Organically grown foods contain naturally occurring carcinogens. In fact, they contain many different natural carcinogens.

For instance, many foods, including mushrooms and apples contain significant amounts of naturally occurring formaldehyde.

Acetaldehyde occurs naturally in coffee, bread, and ripe fruit, and is produced by plants.

USDA organic pineapples and tomatoes contain naturally derived 1,4-dioxane. Don’t worry, these carcinogens exist in small quantities that are considered to be safe by scientific experts, so they are NOT expected to be harmful.

I hope we can all agree, mushrooms and pineapples don’t cause cancer, even though they contain known carcinogens.

Did you know that water is a chemical also? Dihydrogen Monoxide—H2O—two hydrogen and one oxygen. There are several activist groups that profess that dihydrogen monoxide should be banned because it “causes cancer” or could kill you!

Ana and I wrote an article explaining chemicals in more detail. 

Cancer? Really?

Just because a substance is a “known carcinogen” or “linked to cancer”, does NOT mean it will cause cancer.

Fear-based activist groups (such as the EWG) don’t want you to know about this, so you’ll never hear it from them.

They deceive people by telling them there is “no safe level for carcinogens.” That is a load of baloney!

A substance only becomes carcinogenic when safe concentrations are exceeded, and usually for prolonged periods.

These substances are NOT “automatically” cancer causing and therefore dangerous, as these deceivers pretend.

Activist groups demonize these substances and warn people that they must avoid them completely and at all cost. That’s just their game of fear. Unfortunately, they’ve been very successful at fooling the general public into believing this myth.

You Make It Too!

All people, even babies, breathe out tiny amounts of the formaldehyde. That’s because our body makes and uses formaldehyde to build proteins and other beneficial substances we need to function and live.

Formaldehyde isn’t automatically capable of causing cancer. It only becomes a risk in concentrations many thousands of times higher than what would ever be found in nail polish or preservatives—two cosmetic sources that are often cited by these fear-mongers.

In Conclusion

Why do fear-based activists intentionally deceive people in this way?

They know that by frightening people it’s easier to get money/donations. It’s what floats their boat, so to speak.

Doug Schoon Author: Nail Structure & Product Chemistry

That’s why I recommend that you never give any fear-based activist groups any money, for any reason.

After they pay themselves, they’ll use the rest to create even more deceptions and unwarranted fear.

Why? That’s their business model … and it’s why they can’t be trusted to provide the facts.  

Have a Question You’d Like Ana to Answer?

If Ana features your question in an “Ask Ana” article, you’ll get an email from us within a week asking you for your shipping address. Woohoo! This is our way of thanking you for asking a great question and helping deliver more value to our NailCareHQ readers, Blissettes and the Bliss Kiss™ community. Info@MyBlissKiss.com

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post ASK DOUG: Carcinogens in Nail Polish first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

by Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

ASK DOUG: Thicker Nails

This article is a little different, since I’m the one asking Doug the question. I’ve been privileged to become friends with Doug and I ask him a lot of questions so I can write better articles for you.

This topic of thicker nails is really important since you’ve read in a lot of my articles that the nail plate has approximately 100 layers.

New information has been discovered about the structure of the nail plate. Unfortunately, it’s not for the better.

Doug, in your book, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry, you wrote that the nail plate has about 100 layers of keratin. Is this still true? Is it possible to have thicker nails? ~Ana

ANSWER

Ana, it’s kind of a hard question. That’s why I don’t talk in terms of absolute numbers anymore.

The 100 layers reference is from my last book published in 1995.  I don’t teach that now and it won’t be in my new book. 

A few years ago I read a paper that contradicts this information, so I modify what I say now.

One hundred was a rounded off number for a thick, intact nail.  At the time no one in the literature could agree on a number, but most said around 80-90, some up to 150.

This information was mostly from microscopic examination by dermatologists and others counting the nail layers. It’s hard to do accurately in a cut cross-section of the nail plate.

You can see from the pictures on the right that it can be very difficult to count the layers accurately.

More sophisticated testing is needed, because this is still in question. 

In the last few years I recall reading a paper from a surgeon studying the anatomical structure of the matrix.

He determined there are only about 30 rows of stem cells and can only produce about 30 cell layers. All nail cells come from those 30ish layers of stem cells.  

That’s pretty compelling information, if correct. I don’t think anyone really knows and I think there is a pretty wide range from the thinnest fingernail to the thickest toenail. 

I now say that over-filing removes the top 10% or more of the nail plate. That’s easier to understand.

I’ve always been tempted to develop some methods to know for sure, but I’d have to do specialized testing with laboratories I work with, so it would be pretty expensive. I hope that helps clarify things. ~Doug Schoon

In Conclusion

When we thought the nail plate had 100 layers, personally buffing down your ridges and over-filing by nail technicians didn’t seem dangerous.

If our nail plate is about 30 layers, it becomes even more important to keep your ridges. They are the thickest portions of the nail plate.

Also, nail enhancement products have improved significantly over the last 15 years.

When working with your nail tech, make sure that they only buff the shine before applying the gel or acrylic. Heavy filing to the nail plate is no longer necessary.

Inquire if your nail professional is taking continuing education courses from the product manufacturers. This helps them know the best practices with the products they are using.

As you can tell by now, it’s not possible to create naturally thicker nails. The good news is that polish can add temporary thickness and strength. It also protects your nails from water absorption.

So if anyone tells you that polish is bad for your nails, just send them to this website. Polish is a very good thing.

If Ana features your question in an “Ask Ana” article, you’ll get an email from us within a week asking you for your shipping address. Woohoo! This is our way of thanking you for asking a great question and helping deliver more value to our NailCareHQ readers, Blissettes and the Bliss Kiss™ community. Info@MyBlissKiss.com

The post ASK DOUG: Thicker Nails – Can I Make My Nails Thicker? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Nail Growth: How Do Fingernails Grow?

ASK DOUG

Hi Doug,

Is it possible to make my nails thicker or grow a different shape? Thanks for your help! ~Vicki

ANSWER

The finger nail plate is generally composed of about 50 layers of nail plate cells stacked upon each other.

Where do these nail plate cells come from?

The Master Source

They must come from a nail matrix that is long enough to produce the nail plate cells in a row (front to back).

Many such rows lay side-by-side to create the nail plate. Each row of newly made nail plate cells is slowly pushed upward and slightly forward by rows of even newer nail cells created from below, which are also being pushing upward as they are made by the matrix.

The matrix works in unison to create the nail plate—growing rows of new nail plate cells 24 hours a day, seven days a week. This is how the nail plate grows.

The same holds true for a thin nail plate, which may be only 30 layers of nail cells thick, because this nail matrix can only produce 30 nail cells per row.

Got Curves?

The matrix also controls the curvature of the nail plate. Highly curved fingers have highly curved matrix areas which will produce a nail plate with the identical curvature; while a flatter matrix produces a flatter nail plate.

Now it should make sense that the shape of the front edge of the matrix determines the free edge shape of the natural nail. As the above image shows in the upper right corner, primates with oddly shaped lunula (exposed portions of the matrix), had identically shaped free edges of their nails.

False Thickening

Sometimes a nail plate can give the appearance of “thickening”, but since the nail matrix doesn’t grow longer, the plate is not really growing any thicker and will actually contain the same number of layers.

Doug Schoon, Author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

However, when these layers of nail plate cells become separated, this can produce the false appearance of thickening. This can happen when the nail plate is infected with certain types of fungal organisms.

These organisms eat keratin and by doing so cause a breakdown in the structure of the nail plate.

As the infection progresses, the condition of the nail plate will worsen as the cell layers spread farther and farther apart until eventually the nail plate begins to crumble. If you are concerned that you may have a nail fungus, please visit your doctor.

In Conclusion

All of this demonstrates that shape, curvature, width, and thickness of a normal natural nail are ALL controlled by the nail matrix.

This also explains why changing the shape of the free edge, does NOT affect the nail plate’s growth patterns.

In other words, changing the shape of the free edge does NOT permanently change the way the nail plate grows, since the free edge shape and curvature is determined by the hardest working part of your finger, the nail matrix.

The post ASK DOUG: Nail Growth – How Do Fingernails Grow? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Is TPHP In Polish Toxic?

ASK DOUG

Hi, I recently came across this article and was curious what you might know about it. It seems like another way to scare people with how little they tested. But it also seems like it could be a concern. But it includes some of the best polishes on the market right now. http://hellogiggles.com/bad-news-nail-polish/ ~Stephania

ANSWER

If the Environmental Working Group (EWG) is involved, it’s probably baloney.

Never trust anything they say.

They intentionally deceive the public and the media, for profit.

I’ve read the original report about the ingredient Triphenyl Phosphate (TPHP) which is used in some nail polishes. I’ve also read the “analysis” by the activist group that commissioned this study and report, as well as helped to write it.

I have a few comments to share, but my research into this matter is not yet complete. I still want to read the references that were cited, but that may take a while.

Here is what I have learned so far by reading the original paper and the analysis. Feel free to share this information any my opinions with others, in fact, please do.

1. Over the years I have watched the activist group, known as the EWG, as they have consistently distorted scientific studies for the purposes of exaggerating the risks so they can intentionally create unwarranted fear. The EWG’s recent “analysis” of the Duke University study is yet another example.

2. They suggest in their headlines that furniture fire retardant was added to nail polish, but that’s not very accurate, and it typical of how they distort the facts in order to frighten the public. TPHP is used at 20 times the typical concentrations found in nail polish when used as a flame retardant.

3. When used in low levels, e.g. 1%, as it is used in some nail polishes, TPHP it is a softening agent or plasticizer… and not a flame retardant. The Duke study clearly says that the TPHP was “likely added to increase flexibility and durability”.

I guess the EWG didn’t want you to know this fact, so they phrased their headlines to incite fear, not to create clarity. They want to pretend it’s all the same and lump all the issue together, which is ludicrous and not a fair way to view this issue.

4. They also didn’t want you to know that the Duke study says this substance is widely used around the world for many purposes.

The Duke Study points out that even people who don’t wear nail polish have similar levels in their urine, likely due to all the other exposures which occur in life.

5. Even so, the amounts detected are EXTREMELY LOW and are only detectable because modern scientific instruments are now very good at finding traces that otherwise would be undetectable. 

6. The Duke Study says that before even starting this nail polish test, the urine of the 101 people was measured and TPHP was found (in trace amounts) in 87 people, who were not related to this study.

This says that many in the general public have tiny traces in their urine that is NOT related to wearing nail polish.

In fact, the Duke study says that TPHP is found in trace amounts in 90% of the general public tested in North Carolina and that other studies have also similar results in other parts of world.

7. The test subject’s urine “before” applying nail polish was reported to contain about 0.00000000097 grams per every milliliter of urine. So it was already in the test subject’s urine in tiny traces, before the testing started.

The study claims that nail polish use raised this extremely tiny pre-existing amount up to 0.0000000063 grams per milliliter of urine- which is also a very tiny trace. That’s not very much of a change! In fact, it could be a trivial increase that means nothing.

Note: Giving people the real numbers, like I’ve done here, isn’t scary, so instead it is claimed that this is a 6.3 times increase and left it at that.

However, 6.3 times nearly nothing is STILL nearly nothing! It just sounds a lot scarier to say there was a 6.3 times increase (which the EWG rounds up to “nearly 7 fold” rather than to say 6.3 times).

That’s why the real numbers are not told to the public, it fools them into thinking the exposures and risks are much greater than they really are. The EWG says that levels increased “sharply”, but that’s not what the study shows.

The study shows a very small increase in urine concentrations over existing levels before nail polish application.

8. Interestingly, the Duke report noted that their purified water which was used by the laboratory also contained TPHP. That’s correct; it contained about 0.00000000011 grams per milliliter water. Which had to be subtracted from the results obtained. That shows how sensitive these tests are.

They could probably find TPHP if only a few drops were added to an Olympic size swimming pool of highly purified water. Of course, this low concentration would NOT make the water unsafe to swim in, but the EWG wants you to think otherwise.

They are trying to fool the public into thinking there is no safe amount, which is a common trick they use often. That lets them “demonize” any ingredients they want for any reasons they choose!

They don’t want people to understand there are safe levels for everything.

Nothing is so dangerous that “any” amount is harmful, even one molecule. That’s because everything has a safe level of exposure.

Note: the Duke Study says that 0.00000000011 grams per milliliter of TPHP in there purified water is “very low”. I agree, so is the reported increase to 0.0000000063 grams per milliliter of urine.

This is why the public often is not told the actually amounts that are found in these types of studies. They know that most would understand these are really low levels and this study is scientifically “splitting hairs”, so to speak.

9. Even the Duke Study states, that human exposure to TPHP in nail polish and the potential risks have “not yet been characterized”. So hold your horses and slow down EWG, you’re putting your cart before the scientific evidence yet AGAIN!

To date, there is NO indication that exposure to these very low levels from nail polish causes any harm to nail polish wearers, so the EWG is jumping the gun by more than a bit.

This is typical for them and why I say the lack of information never stops the EWG from jumping to conclusions to mislead the public and unfairly demonize yet another ingredient.

It’s what they do and why they try to tie this to furniture fire retardants, to hide the real facts and cloud the issue.

10. The Duke study also says, “Data on the toxicity of TPHP in humans is scarce…”, so they had to cite studies with fish. They claim that only two studies suggest there may be a problem in people, both done by the “same researcher”!

And, these were done on flame retardants products and not nail polish, so they were investigating much higher exposures than would ever occur from using nail polish.

We don’t yet know what this one researcher actually says, but apparently the results aren’t conclusive, nor have the results been confirmed by other researchers.

So there is little information and this is NOT as black and white as the EWG wants everyone to think, which is how they operate on a regular basis. I plan on reviewing these studies as well, which most won’t bother to do. I’ll let you all know what I find.

11. Another EWG exaggeration is made when they claim, “Clear nail polishes generally contain more TPHP than colored nail polishes”.

Excuse me, but that’s NOT what the Duke Study says. It clearly states, “However, due to our small sample size, we caution against the over interpretation of this finding.” They tested only a few bottles.

I guess the EWG didn’t read that line in the report before they made this unfounded statement, but that is also typical of how they are fast and loose with the facts and distort them to match their own preconceived notions.

They want everything to be black and white and try to paint ingredients as “good or bad”, so they ignore any inconvenient details that get in the way of their intentional oversimplifications.

12. The Duke Study failed to collect some critical information on their test subjects concerning body mass, other environmental exposures to TPHP or smoking habits, and likely they should have.

I don’t understand why this was omitted, given that they know TPHP environmental exposures occur regularly.

13. To get the graphs that the Duke Study uses to make their comparisons, the data had to be manipulated using mathematical (statistical) methods. These methods can be used properly or improperly.

But whenever scientific data is manipulated in this fashion, it is easy for even a well-meaning researcher to be misled. That happens a lot, so I am always especially leery of data that is manipulated in the fashion done in this study.

Squeezing data to extract information often leads to misunderstandings. In fact, it is often done to make poorly performed or inconclusive studies look more important and illuminating than the really are.

I’d like to see the original data that Duke collected to determine if this occurred. Unfortunately, Duke did NOT release their original data, just the results after mathematical manipulation to create their statistics.

My recommendation is to be leery of any statistics you see in the media. As Mark Twain is famous for saying, “There are three kinds of lies. Lies, damn lies and statistics.” I agree.

14. To be very clear, I am NOT accusing Duke of scientific fraud nor any unfair actions or misdeeds or wrong doing. Not at all nor am I in any way trying to suggest this. It appears they attempted to do a good study, but I did notice a glaring misjudgment on their part.

It appears that they failed to run the appropriate controls needed to properly evaluate the data collected. They should have collected urine in the same fashion from a group that never wore any nail polish and then used the control group for comparisons.

They failed to do this and I think it is obvious that they should have done so. Then a much fairer comparison could have been made between the group that wore nail polish and a group that did not.

I think this would have shed more light on the issue and would probably have demonstrated that very little changes occurred due to nail polish wear, and perhaps it would have been discovered that there was no significant difference.

This was an error on their part and it weakens any conclusions that may be drawn.

15. One thing I find troubling, the Duke Study recognizes that the nail plate is known to have “low permeability to most molecules”.

They speculate that something in the nail polish “may” have increased absorption through the nail plate, but they can’t say what it was.

In my view, this amounts to “guessing” about something that is very strange about the results they obtained.

It is very difficult to get most molecules to penetrate the nail plate, that is correct. Penetration depends largely on the molecules size and shape.

If you look at the size and shape of TPHP, it seems pretty unlikely that very much penetration would occur through the nail plate, especially after only a few hours.

TPHP Molecular Structure

It is pretty big and extremely bulky for a molecule of its size. So absorption at the rates claimed would be very surprising, not entirely impossible, but very surprising.

So, how did this absorption occur? That is still unexplained. The study concludes that most was probably not inhaled and I agree with that conclusion. If TPHP did absorb through the nail plate, the absorption would probably be very slow, not nearly as quickly as the study indicates.

So, to me they seem to be grasping at straws to explain away something that appears contrary to the known science.

A FAR better explanation is that the users were NOT told to be careful about applying their nail polish and probably got it all over their skin (perhaps intentionally), which is not how nail polish is supposed to be used.

The study says nothing about what instructions were given for application, nor does it seem they made any attempt to provide application directions or to ensure proper use.

Perhaps they did these things, but nothing was mentioned in the study and direct skin exposure seems to be the only likely route of entry, according to their own results.

Throughout the study, the Duke researchers refer to this as “dermal” penetration of TPHP, which is “skin” penetration and NOT nail plate penetration.

So the Duke researchers seem to agree that this is a result of skin contact with the polish during application, not absorption through the nail plate.

This is indeed very, very strange and not at all satisfactorily explained in the study. In fact, this is a very odd result that needs to be explained by more than a vague guess.

In Conclusion

Doug Schoon, Author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

Bottom Line: My personal opinion is that this is an interesting study, but it was not performed in a way that would lead to understanding of the issues.

The results are presented in a way that proves very little, instead the study points out how much they don’t know.

The EWG, once again, appears to be making a “mountain out of a mole hill” as they are accustomed to doing. In fact, their core competency is exaggerations.

Until we see fact-based evidence that these VERY low amounts of TPHP pose some type of health risk, I am not too concerned by the Duke Study.

Remember these trace exposures happen with or with nail polish application and apparently this has been the case for many years.

Of course the EWG wants you to be afraid- just in case. But we can’t go around being afraid of everything, just in case we should.

In my view, this just amounts to fear-mongering and without sufficient evidence… which is typical the EWG.

That’s why in my opinion, they are NOT a credible source of fact-based information and can’t be trusted to provide unbiased reviews.

They specialize in duping the public AND the media with misinformation, so anyone writing about this story would be wise to ask a lot of questions and not just accept them at their word.

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Chemicals

Should You Fear Them?

One of the hottest topics is 3-Free and now 5-Free nail polishes. Where does this end and what’s to keep someone from now demanding 7-Free? 

~Doug Schoon, author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

 

Is There a Chemical Free Product?

Want to make £1million ($1.6 million US) the easy way?

All you have to do is identify a truly chemical-free product.

That should be pretty easy with so many companies claiming to have “chemical-free” products.

A £1million bounty was offered for UK’s first chemical-free product in February 2010, but so far no one has claimed the prize.

Wonder why?

Could it be that those who make such claims know they are tricking the public for personal gain and profit?

To expose this trickery, the Royal Society of Chemistry (RSC) announced they would award a  £1 million bounty to the first person who can crack this impossible task and create a product that is truly 100% chemical-free.

Why did this prestigious society offer this challenge?

Research by the UK’s cosmetic and toiletries industry reveals 52% of women and 37% of men actively seek out chemical-free products, demonstrating a deep-seated public confusion about chemicals and how we interact with them in daily life.

What Is Chemical?

The confusion comes with the misunderstanding of the word “chemical”.

Everything on the planet has a chemical structure.

According to the dictionary—chemistry is the branch of science that deals with the identification of the substances of which matter is composed; the investigation of their properties and the ways in which they interact, combine, and change; and the use of these processes to form new substances.

The facts are, the vast majority of chemicals that people come into contact with each day are completely safe. Many are beneficial and essential for your life.

Our bodies are constantly manufacturing chemicals.

For example, proteins are chemicals made by other chemicals called amino acids. This process requires use of the powerful chemical solvent known as water.

Yes, water and air are chemicals too!

A Clever Deception

The Advocacy Groups

Certain cosmetic advocacy groups have focused on deceiving the general public about cosmetic, beauty and personal care products.

Now they’re branching out to attack salon products and services!

They regularly e-mail scaremongering misinformation and post outlandish statements on their websites.

Why? In large part, to frighten the public into donating millions of dollars, much of which is used to spread more misinformation. This contrived data is designed to frighten the public.

The intent is to convince the public into applying greater pressure on well-meaning politicians to support often unnecessary, or misguided regulations.

Guilty by Six Degrees of Separation?

Some advocacy groups make exaggerated claims that certain ingredients are “linked” to an illness or disease even if only one study vaguely suggests this may be a possibility, while many other scientific studies disprove these claims.

The word “linked” is regularly used to trick the public/media into falsely believing that common ingredients, with a long history of safe use, are now suddenly dangerous.

This “linked trick” is used to fool the public into believing that these ingredients must be “toxic”.

Usually the evidence for such claims is very weak, or highly questionable, and almost always exaggerated.

For instance, if you applied, the “Six Degrees of Separation” rule, then every substance on Earth would be “toxic” because they are somehow “linked” to every illness, injury and disease!

By this method, organically grown carrots, baby’s breath, even pure oxygen or ancient glacier water would easily be “linked” to problems such as appendicitis, manic depression, broken bones, freckles, warts and even leprosy.

Of course this sounds silly, but no more silly than the pseudo-scientific misinformation coming from the anti-chemical advocacy groups.

Beware of Tricksters

Many groups ignore any scientific information that disagrees with them.

They intentionally misquote studies. They distort statistics to support the bogus information they spread on a regular basis.

These groups do NOT want you to know the truth.

Instead, they use tricky and deceptive claims like “may cause…” or “it is believed that…” or “could be linked to…”.

These misleading phrases are used because they lack the real proof needed to justify their claims.

Risky? Or Beneficial?

An extremely popular deception used is to focus solely on the “risks/hazards”. The “benefits” are completely ignored.

Since we know there always two sides to a topic, this is an unrealistic approach.

Cars Versus Planes

It is statistically proven that riding in a car is more dangerous than flying in a plane.

But more people are afraid of flying than getting in a car.

Just because some people drive poorly and cause accidents is not a reason to demonize or ban cars.

In certain instances cars may be hazardous, but they are safe when used properly.

A better solution is to focus on improving the skills of poor drivers. By minimizing the “risks”, we safely enjoy the “benefits” that cars provide.

Too Much of A Good Thing?

It’s also important to look at the “hazard vs. exposure” equation.

Hazard Versus Exposure

Credit: Amolife.com

The Sun

Let’s look at the sun. Everyone thinks it’s a good thing. Of course it is.

The sun is essential to life on planet Earth.

Spending time in the sun improves our mood, warms our skin and helps our body create an essential vitamin to our health; vitamin D.

But in large doses without sunscreen or a deep tan, the sun can cause 2nd degree, blistering burns.

An excess of the sun’s UV radiation can be life-threatening in extreme cases, and long term overexposure can lead to skin cancer.

The sun is hazardous. Does this mean we should never go out in the sun? Of course not.

We value the benefits in spite of the risks of sun exposure.

Bleach

Bleach is a compound that many consider quite hazardous yet it is sold in stores daily.

At full strength, bleach can burn your skin. But in proper dilutions, like in public swimming pools, it makes the water safer for swimming.

Again—risks vs. benefits.

Our Beauty Products

Hair shampoo and conditioners do NOT cause cancer or birth defects.

Lipsticks are extremely safe and do NOT contain harmful amounts of lead.

Nail polish has been safely used for 80 years, until these groups created a hoax to make people believe it is suddenly unsafe.

The list goes on and on.

There is an anti-chemical activists group to find fault in just about anything and everything, so why should these groups be allowed to force companies to stop using their best ingredients just to satisfy their overly paranoid and misguided beliefs?

This is what’s been going on for many years now.

Chemicals or Ingredient List?

Take a look at the photo below. It was featured on a cosmetic advocacy group website.

This photo is edited to make it look like these products have dangerous chemicals.

When in reality, they’re simply counting the ingredient list. Check your shampoo. About how many ingredients does it have? Most likely it’s about 15.

At the end of the article they made the following statement.

“So, our take home message is…….read the label. If you cannot pronounce it, it probably is not good for you or your family.”

Is that actually true? Let’s think about this.

Even “natural” ingredients can be sinisterly portrayed.

Alpha-tocopherol, Tocopherols, Tocotrienols are Vitamin E

Olea Europaea is Olive Oil

And my favorite — Dihydrogen Monoxide is water!

The water molecule has the chemical formula H₂O, meaning each molecule of water is composed of two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. Literally, the term “dihydrogen monoxide” means “two hydrogen, one oxygen”, consistent with its molecular formula: the prefix di- in dihydrogen means “two”, the prefix mon-in monoxide means “one”, and an oxide is a compound that contains one or more oxygen atoms. [source: En-Wikipedia.org]

How Gullible Are We?

The general public is easily confused by scientific chemical names and advocacy groups rely on our lack of knowledge.

In fact, it’s so bad that dihydrogen monoxide has become a major hoax on the internet that is spreading like the plague.

The dihydrogen monoxide hoax involves calling water by the unfamiliar chemical name “dihydrogen monoxide” (DHMO), and listing some of water’s effects in an alarming manner, such as the fact that it accelerates corrosion and can cause severe burns.

The hoax often calls for dihydrogen monoxide to be regulated, labeled as hazardous, or banned. It illustrates how the lack of scientific literacy and an exaggerated analysis can lead to misplaced fears.

In 1997, Nathan Zohner, a 14-year-old student at Eagle Rock Junior High School in Idaho Falls, made the news when he based his science fair project on the hoax circulating the internet.

Zohner’s project, titled “How Gullible Are We?”, involved presenting that warning about “the dangers of dihyrogen monoxide” to fifty ninth-grade students and asking them what (if anything) should be done about the chemical.

Forty-three students favored banning it, six were undecided, and only one correctly recognized that ‘dihydrogen monoxide’ is actually plain old water.

Zohner’s analysis of the results he obtained won him first prize in the Greater Idaho Falls Science Fair; garnered him scads of attention from newspapers, magazines, radio and TV stations, universities, and congress people; and prompted the usual round of outcries about how our ignorant citizenry doesn’t read critically and can be easily misled. [source: www.snopes.com/science]

A Course in Creative Writing

There are several advocacy groups on the internet supporting the ban of water.

Here’s an example of some of their sales copy.

Dihydrogen Monoxide (DHMO) is a colorless and odorless chemical compound, also referred to by some as Dihydrogen Oxide, Hydrogen Hydroxide, Hydronium Hydroxide, or simply Hydric acid. Its basis is the highly reactive hydroxyl radical, a species shown to mutate DNA, denature proteins, disrupt cell membranes, and chemically alter critical neurotransmitters. The atomic components of DHMO are found in a number of caustic, explosive and poisonous compounds such as Sulfuric Acid, Nitroglycerine and Ethyl Alcohol.

Yes, you should be concerned about DHMO! Although the U.S. Government and the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) do not classify Dihydrogen Monoxide as a toxic or carcinogenic substance (as it does with better known chemicals such as hydrochloric acid and benzene), DHMO is a constituent of many known toxic substances, diseases and disease-causing agents, environmental hazards and can even be lethal to humans in quantities as small as a thimbleful.

Research conducted by award-winning U.S. scientist Nathan Zohner concluded that roughly 86 percent of the population supports a ban on dihydrogen monoxide. Although his results are preliminary, Zohner believes people need to pay closer attention to the information presented to them regarding Dihydrogen Monoxide. He adds that if more people knew the truth about DHMO then studies like the one he conducted would not be necessary.

Notice who that award-winning U.S. scientist Nathan Zohner is? He’s the 14 year old student who won first place at the Greater Idaho Falls Science Fair!

The website also sells t-shirts with the phrases “Ban DHMO” or “DMHO Kills” for $18 US dollars. They claim that their t-shirts are high-quality, 100% Cotton T-shirts that are DHMO free.

It’s very important that we think and do research before donating our hard earned cash.

Will Nail Polish Ingredients Kill You?

One of the hottest topics is 3-Free and now 5-Free nail polishes.

Where does this end and what’s to keep someone from now demanding 7-Free?

This is clearly becoming ludicrous and all because of unfounded fear with little or no science to back such claims.

What Is a 3-Free Polish?

3-Free polishes do not contain Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), Formaldehyde and Toluene.

First, it’s important to remember that your nails are made up of about 50 layers of dead keratin cells.

Polish hardens when the solvents that make it liquid evaporate into the air. The ingredients—including vitamins or minerals—do not penetrate the nail plate.

Let’s take a look at the purpose of those 3-free feared ingredients.

Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) is a plasticiser to prevent chips and cracks.

Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin (TAF Resin) – a copolymer resin created by linking short molecules together to create longer ones. It improves adhesion and toughens the polish coating.

TAF resin sticks strongly to the nail plate, but it is too soft and has a dull appearance. Although there is a great deal of unfounded fear about TAF, it is currently the best nail polish resin on the market.

TAF needs to be combined with a film former called Nitrocellulose. It produces a very hard shiny surface but does not stick to the nail plate and is too brittle. TAF resin and nitrocellulose make a great pair.

Toluene Sulfonamide Formaldehyde Resin (TSF Resin) – A polymer produced from each of the chemicals in it’s name.

Toluene Sulfonamide Epoxy Resin – a replacement for TAF or TSF. Polishes that contain this resin suffer from poor shelf life and it doesn’t compare to TAF or TSF resins for strength and durability.

These products should not be confused with Formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a clear colorless gas that is not used in nail polish. Formaldehyde is never listed as a nail polish ingredient, but you will find it in some “nail hardeners”.

Why should nail polish companies stop using the best ingredients, which have been proven to create polishes with exceptional wear and durability?

The US FDA and Health Canada

According to Health Canada and the US Food and Drug Administration, the facts are that “Cosmetics are among the safest products consumers can purchase.”

Based on my 30 year career in chemistry, I agree whole heartedly!

The Canadian Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CCTFA), a very highly respected Canadian cosmetic association have produced a brand new, really EXCELLENT and FUN short animated film related to this topic. I thank the CCTFA for allowing me to help introduce this to you and hope you will share it with everyone you know. http://youtu.be/7YrNdWofE80

Should Fear Rule Your Pocketbook?

Anti-chemical groups have manufactured the false notion that hidden dangers lurk in these types of products and their scare tactics have made a lot of money for them!

I keep receiving emails from an anti-cosmetic activist group asking me to donate money to their “cause”.

The E-mails

It doesn’t matter which particular group sends the e-mail, they all start the same way; telling me how lucky we are THEY are working to save us from all the supposedly dangerous “chemicals” in cosmetics.  You know, the ones that are supposedly killing babies and everybody else too.

Look at their e-mails and you’ll quickly discover the “Donate Here” link. Now they are using mobile apps to collect even more money, so it’s no surprise they rake in huge amounts of money. Obviously, this is a cash cow, especially when we’re following the rest of the herd.

Honestly, what else can they do?

Who’s Getting Used?

Without any solid evidence, they can’t debate the facts with knowledgeable scientists.

Instead, they use the Internet and the news media to launch unfounded attacks.

They pretend to be champions of truth, when instead they are the exact opposite.

My advice is to NEVER donate to any group that focuses on spreading fear and misinformation about cosmetics and their ingredients.

They will just continue needlessly frightening your friends and clients. Please don’t support such groups or visit their websites.

Fear-based advocacy groups are self-serving and don’t have your best interest at heart.

Most are tax-exempt, money making machines that seek to control the political process so they can promote their own irresponsible agendas.

Don’t be fooled! They don’t really care about any of us.

Much of this money will be used to promote misguided regulations that aren’t needed, and if passed would cause more harm than good. Please don’t donate to any “fear-based” activist groups.

Instead, tell them you don’t appreciate their exaggeration and distortions and ask your friends/clients to say the same. These groups are unlikely to stop their trickery as long as it is lucrative to frighten the public.

In Conclusion

Doug Schoon, Author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

In the end, I hope I’ve helped you understand “chemicals” a little better.

It’s a topic that certainly gets me fired up!

I spend my days fighting for your right to enjoy going to the salon.

You have the right to pamper yourself with beautiful polishes and nail enhancements.

Yes, our beloved products have chemicals. You shouldn’t be afraid of them because they have a chemical structure.

Nail polish consists of a blend of chemicals that have been proven to be safe when used according to the manufacturers directions.

Remember, you are
made up of many
millions of chemicals …
… and so am I.

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