Nail Anatomy

Authors: Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

Nail Anatomy – The Different Parts of the Fingernail

Do you know where your cuticle is? Or your hyponychium? Most people don’t.

Not only is the general public confused about the names for the parts of the natural nail, but many nail technicians are not able to name the various major parts and know their function.

Let’s change this today.

Matrix

Where new nail plate cells are created and the nail plate begins to form.

Lunula

Lunula

A bluish-white, opaque area that is visible through the nail plate. This area is the front part of the nail matrix. Sometimes, it’s called the “moon.”

The lunula is the front part of the matrix we can see, or in other words, the visible matrix.

Not all fingers have a visible lunula. Usually, it is easiest to find a lunula on a thumb or index finger.

Many people think that they would like to have lunula’s, but in fact, you really don’t.

Since it is the exposed portion of the matrix, this area is not protected by the eponychium. It is easy bruised with every day life tasks.

Those bruises show up as little white marks in the nail plate.

Eponychium

Living skin at the base of the nail plate that covers the matrix area. This should NOT be confused with the “cuticle”.

Proximal Fold of the Eponychium

Healthy Proximal Fold

A tight band of living tissue that most people incorrectly think is their “cuticle”.

Since this skin dries out easily, people are quick to clip this skin believing that it’s not necessary.

Please, please, please…DO NOT CUT THIS SKIN!

The proximal fold is a required guardian seal that prevents germs and bacteria from getting to the nail matrix, where new cells are created.

I always know when girls are cutting. Their entire cuticle line is red and inflamed. Basically, their eponychium is infected all the time.

 

If you go to a salon for a manicure, do not ever let your nail tech cut this skin.

The best way to keep this skin soft and tight to the nail plate is with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based penetrating nail and cuticle oil.

Cuticle

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

CLICK PICTURE FOR LARGER DETAIL

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and eponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the matrix area.

The cuticle pulls away from the underside of the eponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

The cuticle should NOT be confused with the “eponychium”.

Since polish and nail enhancements don’t bond to skin on the nail plate, the cuticle should be properly removed with gentle scraping only.

Nippers can’t remove the cuticle. It’s physically impossible.

Nail Plate

Composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid, protective layer over the underlying soft tissue.

The nail plate should NOT be confused with the nail “bed”.

The average person has 50 layers of keratin cells that make up the nail plate.

The thickness of your nails is determined by the size of your matrix.

Not everyone’s matrix is the same size. People with thin nails have a small matrix and will have less than 50 layers. People with thick nails have a large matrix and have more than 50 layers.

Nail Bed

The soft, pink tissue that sits underneath and supports the nail plate while it grows. The nail bed should NOT be confused with the nail “plate”.

CLICK FOR MORE DETAIL

Hyponychium

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

A soft tissue seal underneath the extended “free” edge of the nail plate whose purpose is to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

Onychodermal Band

A band of bunched up tissue located behind the hyponychium.

This band improves the ability of the hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The onychodermal band works in the same way as the proximal fold on the top surface of the nail.

When looking at your bare nails, you can see this darker band of skin right before your nail plate leaves the nail bed to become your free edge.

Solehorn Cuticle

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The solehorn cuticle pulls away from the underside of the hyponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

Bone

Bone supports and shapes both the nail matrix and nail bed. The flat or curved shape of your nails is determined by the shape of your fingertip bone.

Knowledge is Power

Knowing your nail anatomy is important for the home manicurist and can actually help you find an excellent nail professional if you’re wanting to be pampered. 

Ask her how she removes the cuticle.

If she shows you nippers instead of a spoon shaped remover or curette, you’ll know to politely walk out and find someone new.

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post NAIL ANATOMY – Different Parts of Fingernail first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Nail Anatomy

Authors: Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

Nail Anatomy – The Different Parts of the Fingernail

Do you know where your cuticle is? Or your hyponychium? Most people don’t.

Not only is the general public confused about the names for the parts of the natural nail, but many nail technicians are not able to name the various major parts and know their function.

Let’s change this today.

Matrix

Where new nail plate cells are created and the nail plate begins to form.

Lunula

Lunula

A bluish-white, opaque area that is visible through the nail plate. This area is the front part of the nail matrix. Sometimes, it’s called the “moon.”

The lunula is the front part of the matrix we can see, or in other words, the visible matrix.

Not all fingers have a visible lunula. Usually, it is easiest to find a lunula on a thumb or index finger.

Many people think that they would like to have lunula’s, but in fact, you really don’t.

Since it is the exposed portion of the matrix, this area is not protected by the proximal nail fold. It is easy bruised with every day life tasks.

Those bruises show up as little white marks in the nail plate.

Eponychium

Living skin at the base of the nail plate that covers the matrix area. This should NOT be confused with the “cuticle”.

The Keratinized Proximal Nail Fold (The PNF)

A tight band of living tissue that most people incorrectly think is their “cuticle”.

Since this skin dries out easily, people are quick to clip this skin believing that it’s not necessary.

Please, please, please…DO NOT CUT THIS SKIN!

The proximal fold is a required guardian seal that prevents germs and bacteria from getting to the nail matrix, where new cells are created.

I always know when girls are cutting. Their entire cuticle line is red and inflamed. Basically, their PNF is infected all the time.

If you go to a salon for a manicure, do not ever let your nail tech cut this skin.

The best way to keep this skin soft and tight to the nail plate is with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based penetrating nail and cuticle oil.

Cuticle

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

As the nail cells are created and pushed forward, the nail plate literally rips the bottom layer of eponychium cells with it.

It is these cells that are the cuticle.

Cuticle cells also tightly grip the proximal nail fold. This creates a nice, tight guardian seal that prevents bacteria and germs from damaging or destroying your nail matrix.

The cuticle should NOT be confused with the “eponychium”  [or proximal nail fold]. ~Doug Schoon, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

Since polish and nail enhancements don’t bond to skin on the nail plate, the cuticle should be properly removed with gentle scraping only.

Nippers can’t remove the cuticle. It’s physically impossible.

Nail Plate

Composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid, protective layer over the underlying soft tissue.

The nail plate should NOT be confused with the nail “bed”.

The average person has 50 layers of keratin cells that make up the nail plate.

The thickness of your nails is determined by the size of your matrix.

Not everyone’s matrix is the same size. People with thin nails have a small matrix and will have less than 50 layers. People with thick nails have a large matrix and have more than 50 layers.

Nail Bed

The soft, pink tissue that sits underneath and supports the nail plate while it grows. The nail bed should NOT be confused with the nail “plate”.

Hyponychium

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

A soft tissue seal underneath the extended “free” edge of the nail plate whose purpose is to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

Onychodermal Band

A band of bunched up tissue located behind the hyponychium.

This band improves the ability of the hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The onychodermal band works in the same way as the proximal fold on the top surface of the nail.

When looking at your bare nails, you can see this darker band of skin right before your nail plate leaves the nail bed to become your free edge.

Solehorn Cuticle

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The solehorn cuticle pulls away from the underside of the hyponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

Bone

Bone supports and shapes both the nail matrix and nail bed. The flat or curved shape of your nails is determined by the shape of your fingertip bone.

Knowledge is Power

Knowing your nail anatomy is important for the home manicurist and can actually help you find an excellent nail professional if you’re wanting to be pampered. 

Ask them how they removes the cuticle.

If they shows you nippers instead of a spoon shaped remover or curette, you’ll know to politely walk out and find someone new.

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post NAIL ANATOMY – Different Parts of Fingernail first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Long Nails: Will I Ever Have Them?

Today’s article actually addresses two important ASK ANA questions that are intertwined …

ASK ANA

“I saw the pic of your long nails you put up on Facebook. How do keep them so long and beautiful without breaking? I’m using your high quality jojoba nail and cuticle oil. I did get them long—but not like yours. I had to cut them because two broke :”( I have no idea how. What do you recommend?” ~Brianna

Ana, I have learned so much from you! I’m just wondering why some people are blessed with naturally beautiful nails that don’t require jojoba. Will you please explain this? Thank you.” ~Dot

ANSWER

Brianna and Dot, these are really important questions with a very complicated answer. I could probably write about 3,000 words on just this topic alone! So let’s see if I can do it in less.

Brittle Nails & Genetics

Most people think my nails must be very strong.

The truth is that my nails are VERY THIN. When I look at my husband’s and my mother’s nails—they appear to be almost 50% thicker than mine!

People’s nails on average contain 50 layers of nail keratin. Since this is an average, some people can have a little more or a little less.

For about four months, your new nail cells develop in the matrix underneath the eponychium (right behind your cuticle line).

The strength of your cells created is in direct relation to the quality and variety of your diet.

Illness, disease and stress also affects the quality of your nails.

Source: Instagram.com/SirinyNails

Curved or Flat?

I’ve noticed that most of the successful nail polish bloggers with long nails have naturally strong C-curves in their nails.

If you look at the tips of your nails, do they make a C-curve or are they pretty flat?

Longer nails with a minimal c-curve have a big tendency to tear from the sides. This is why my thumbnails are significantly shorter than the rest of my long nails.

“Keratin fibers inside the nail cells lay across the width of the nail plate, which is why the nail plate typically splits across the width of the plate and not down the length.  The so called “grain” doesn’t make a difference when it comes to nail surface damage. It can make a difference when it comes to vertical nail plate splitting, which is usually a result of over thinning/over filing. [Source: Doug Schoon]

This desire to have what we aren’t blessed with naturally parallels today’s fashion industry.

Successful models are insanely skinny with legs from here to another country. You don’t diet to that shape, you’re born with it. You just can’t diet yourself into those long legs.

Your fingertip bone structure and the shape of your nail matrix determines whether you have a strong C-curve or flat nails. There is absolutely nothing you can do to change it. Sorry 🙁

What is important is to acknowledge your natural nail shape and learn how to maximize it.

Once you know how to look for nails that are like yours, you can embrace the beauty and possibilities.

Your Crazy Lifestyle?

There have been times in my life that it was simply impossible to have long nails.

Source: Instagram.com/NailsByNadia

When my first child died of SIDS, I volunteered at a horse stable for two years and took riding lessons.

The horses gave me more joy than my nails at the time, so I kept them short.

When my four surviving children were infants, the endless diaper changes and snapping them in and out of car seats forced me to keep them short.

At this writing, my nails are much shorter than the image of the top of this article. My lifestyle has changed from that time four years ago.

Many of you may have hobbies or jobs that just don’t match with long nails. That’s ok.

Over the last 4 years of watching nail artists and enthusiasts, I’ve been delighted to see how many people can still have beautiful short nails.

Where Am I in Space?

Do you go through life like a bull in a china closet—knocking everything over?

I pay attention to how I move my body through life.

I’ve chosen to slow down—just a little bit—so that I don’t slam my finger nails into light switches and drawer handles.

I chose to carefully watch where I place my hands when grabbing doors. Too many of my nails have snapped while carelessly grabbing my car door handle.

I’ve also learned that it is always easier to let things fall, including the dog jumping off the sofa or a child trying to pull away from me.

Every time I didn’t follow these tips—I’ve broken nails—and usually quite painfully.

I offer more strategies in my How To Stop Breaking Nails article.

Proper Nail Hydration

In 2012, I learned that healthy nails have a perfect balance of 18% moisture and 5% oil.

This body oil and moisture come from the nail bed—the pink portion under your nail plate.

I knew my nails had been dried out from constant hand washing and weekly acetone use.

When I learned from Doug Schoon that certain oils can penetrate the nail plate to increase its flexibility, I started doing a lot of research into why and how.

“Sticky substances between the nail cells, as well as tight rivet like connections, hold the nail plate cells together. Many natural oils and proteins are found in the nail plate. Research shows that the nail oils found in the nail plate are cholesterol and squalene. Both are found in skin oil (sebum). However, in the nails they are found in greater abundance.” ~Doug Schoon, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry.

I wanted to know which oils would penetrate the nail plate when creating our Simply Pure™ nail oil recipe. The ingredients that intrigued me most were jojoba and squalane. Bear with me as I cite some sciency stuff.

Body Oil

Human body oil (sebum) consists of squalene, esters of glycerol, wax and cholesterol, as well as free cholesterol and fatty acids. Triglycerides and fatty acids, taken together, account for the predominant proportion (57.5%), followed by wax esters (26%) and squalene (12%). The least abundant lipid in sebum is cholesterol, which with its esters, accounts for the 4.5% of total lipids. The most characteristic products of sebaceous secretion are squalene and wax esters. [Source: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]

Jojoba Wax Ester

Jojoba esters are commonly used in cosmetic formulations as an emollient, due to its remarkable similarity to the natural oils produced by the human skin, and its high oxidative stability. This means that jojoba ester has an amazing shelf life since it doesn’t go rancid like other vegetable oils.

Jojoba esters are proper waxes; there is no triglyceride component of jojoba esters. Jojoba esters’ chemical structure is very similar to that of human sebum and of sperm whale oil.

Since whale hunting was banned in 1986, the cosmetic industry was forced to find a replacement for sperm whale oil. Jojoba is an excellent botanical substitute. [Source: en.wikipedia.org]

Squalane

Squalene and Squalane are two very similar words, yet the ‘e’ in one of them makes all the difference.

Squalene is naturally present in the skin lipid barrier of plants, animals and humans, preventing moisture loss while restoring skin’s suppleness and flexibility.

Squalene is shark liver oil that had been used as one of the most common moisturizers in cosmetics before sourcing began endangering the species.

Approximately 3000 sharks are required to produce one ton of squalene. The EU took steps to ban targeted deep‐sea shark fisheries back in 2010.

Squalene isn’t stable enough for use in products intended to be kept on the shelves for some time, like skin care products.

Since squalane is derived from squalene, it is a more stable form of this molecule. Olive oil squalane as an alternative non-animal source has been developed and commercialized. [Sources: various]

Too Much Of A Good Thing?

For most of us, we wash our hands too much and strip the natural oils from the nail plate. People wash their hands on average 20 times per day. That’s just too much.

But, some people produce more body oil than the rest of us. Their body is able to keep up with the washing and soaps.

For some women it’s so extreme that they are unable to keep polish on for more than a day. It will pop off in a complete piece.

The extra oil in their nail plate is breaking the polish to nail bond.

These people probably also have beautiful skin with few wrinkles. Nature’s best moisturizer is our sebum.

Fab 5 Polish Wrap

Protect those nails from water absorption with polish. I explain this technique in more detail on my Fab Five Polish Wrap article.

Gloves, Gloves and more Gloves

I don’t think I can say it enough. Wear gloves for many of your tasks—dishes, laundry, cleaning, gardening, etc.

You hate them. I hate them. But beautiful nails require them.

Knowledge is Power

Spend some time exploring this site and let your friends know about it.

At this writing in 2016, I’ve written over 70 articles. The answers are here.

Have fun browsing!

Have a Question You’d Like Ana to Answer?

If Ana features your question in an “Ask Ana” article, you’ll get an email from us within a week asking you for your shipping address. Woohoo! This is our way of thanking you for asking a great question and helping deliver more value to our NailCareHQ readers, Blissettes and the Bliss Kiss™ community. Info@MyBlissKiss.com

The post ASK ANA: Long Nails – Will I Ever Have Them? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Nail Growth: How Do Fingernails Grow?

ASK DOUG

Hi Doug,

Is it possible to make my nails thicker or grow a different shape? Thanks for your help! ~Vicki

ANSWER

The finger nail plate is generally composed of about 50 layers of nail plate cells stacked upon each other.

Where do these nail plate cells come from?

The Master Source

They must come from a nail matrix that is long enough to produce the nail plate cells in a row (front to back).

Many such rows lay side-by-side to create the nail plate. Each row of newly made nail plate cells is slowly pushed upward and slightly forward by rows of even newer nail cells created from below, which are also being pushing upward as they are made by the matrix.

The matrix works in unison to create the nail plate—growing rows of new nail plate cells 24 hours a day, seven days a week. This is how the nail plate grows.

The same holds true for a thin nail plate, which may be only 30 layers of nail cells thick, because this nail matrix can only produce 30 nail cells per row.

Got Curves?

The matrix also controls the curvature of the nail plate. Highly curved fingers have highly curved matrix areas which will produce a nail plate with the identical curvature; while a flatter matrix produces a flatter nail plate.

Now it should make sense that the shape of the front edge of the matrix determines the free edge shape of the natural nail. As the above image shows in the upper right corner, primates with oddly shaped lunula (exposed portions of the matrix), had identically shaped free edges of their nails.

False Thickening

Sometimes a nail plate can give the appearance of “thickening”, but since the nail matrix doesn’t grow longer, the plate is not really growing any thicker and will actually contain the same number of layers.

Doug Schoon, Author of Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

However, when these layers of nail plate cells become separated, this can produce the false appearance of thickening. This can happen when the nail plate is infected with certain types of fungal organisms.

These organisms eat keratin and by doing so cause a breakdown in the structure of the nail plate.

As the infection progresses, the condition of the nail plate will worsen as the cell layers spread farther and farther apart until eventually the nail plate begins to crumble. If you are concerned that you may have a nail fungus, please visit your doctor.

In Conclusion

All of this demonstrates that shape, curvature, width, and thickness of a normal natural nail are ALL controlled by the nail matrix.

This also explains why changing the shape of the free edge, does NOT affect the nail plate’s growth patterns.

In other words, changing the shape of the free edge does NOT permanently change the way the nail plate grows, since the free edge shape and curvature is determined by the hardest working part of your finger, the nail matrix.

The post ASK DOUG: Nail Growth – How Do Fingernails Grow? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Have you heard that using nail clippers will damage your nails?

In this article, you’ll learn:

• If it’s safe to use nail clippers
• The best choice for you to shorten and shape your nails

ASK ANA:

Is it safe to use nail clippers to cut your nails? ~Bethany

ANSWER

This is such a great question and a topic I have wanted to address for a long time.

Safe?

Is it safe to cut your hair?

Fingernails and hair are simply dead keratin cells.

Technically, using nail clippers is safe, but it may or may not be your preferred method.

What Do I Prefer?

I cut my nails with nail clippers all the time. Here’s why.

Twenty filing strokes remove one week of growth. I’ve accomplished this once in the last 4 years since I learned it.

My Little Secret

My reason is plain and simple . . . I’m busy.

I run a rapidly growing global business, try to keep my sanity with four children, and continue to build a happy marriage with Cory.

I just don’t have time to file 200 strokes every week.

I let them grow until I know they are all destined to start breaking because . . . well . . . I have a crazy life. And I bet you do too.

There’s no way I’m going to file 4 weeks of growth. I might go insane.

Instead, I use really sharp nail clippers, cut them to slightly longer than I want, and finish by filing with a crystal nail file.

When To Say No

I do not recommend using nail clippers if you have short nails. There’s just not enough to cut. They will splinter easily, which can lead to more tip peeling.

Filing is the best solution if your nails are short.

How To Cut Longer Nails

Most people have trouble cutting their nails because they are trying to cut straight across.

The problem with this technique is that the opposite corner will most likely snap at an angle. Then you’re stuck filing your nails two or three millimeters shorter than you planned.

With a little patience, this tragedy can be avoided. (Only nail geeks understand that this truly is a tragedy!)

Tips:

• Make sure your nails have not been in water in the last hour. It may be easier to clip toenails if they are wet, but it will cause fingernails to peel more. They’re too soft and could tear easily.
• Do not cut your fingernails straight across.
• If you like your nails square, you will definitely want to cut your nails two to three millimeters longer than you want the finished look to be and finish off with filing.

Ready . . . Go

1. It usually takes three small clips with rounded nail clippers. Start on the side of the nail facing your thumb, make a small clip about 1/3 across at an angle. Position the clippers pointed toward the upper, opposite corner of the nail. This will help prevent the nail from snapping.
2. Make another cut about 1/3 across the top.
3. Finish with the last clip either straight across or slightly curved the other direction.
4. Use your favorite nail file to finish the edges. If you need help with filing the right shape, check out my article, How To File Nails Squoval. It will help you learn how to make your nails the same length. Then you can branch off to create your favorite tip shape.

In Conclusion

I hope this dispels the myth that nail clippers are evil.

They are a useful tool that can make your nail care routine more enjoyable.

Because, let’s be real . . .nail care is important, but it’s all about the polish!

The post ASK ANA: Nail Clippers – Are They Safe? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

ASK ANA: Curved Nails
Can I Change My C-Curve?

ASK ANA

“Hi Ana, I’ve done a lot of googling but I can’t find much reference at all to whether one can improve a flatish c-curve on natural nails – most people seem to have the opposite problem.

Most of my nails are quite wide and flat, but not spooned or anything. I’m a little envious of those with a high c-curve! Any thoughts? Thanks for any suggestions. ~Liz

ANSWER

The curve of your fingernail is determined by the shape of your matrix. This is where new nail cells are made right behind your cuticle line.

Unfortunately, it’s not changeable.

Flat nails tend to tear more at the sides.

Curved nails can curl too much and literally hurt.

Since the shape of your matrix can’t be changed, you can change definitely change the look of your nails cosmetically. Just look at the women who go from squares, to almond, and back to squares.

As nails grow longer, the c-curve tends to tighten because the tips are drying out. They start to curl in the same way an autumn leaf curls as it dries out.

Side Filing

I don’t know where the myth came about that you should never file the sides of your nails—that they would somehow be made weaker.

Does it seem logical that you can file the tops of your free edge but not your sides?

Not to me.

Credit: NailItMag.com

Too Wide?

If your nails are flat and tend to widen out at the tips, you can file the side edges to make them a little bit more rectangular.

If you have wider nails, wearing polish at all times is going to be very important for you. It will help add temporary strength, thus reducing the side tears.

Here’s my technique for adding temporary strength with polish, www.NailCareHQ.com/Fab5Wrap

Like most people, my thumb nails are flatter than the rest of my nails. They tend to get more side tears.

Once those tears happen, the only solutions are to cut your nails back or repair it by applying a silk or fiberglass wrap.

Are Curves Better?

It depends on how curvy your nails are. My nails have a strong c-curve—so much so that they will start to curl too much.

For me, if those sides curl too much, they weaken and break.

It is possible to have too much of a good thing.

I do file my sides to take the pressure off my skin. Side filing also reduces the tension of the curl so my nails flatten out a bit.

If you like the way your nails look when you come out of the shower and they’ve absorbed 3 times their weight in water, then you’ve got dry, dry, dry nails.

You definitely want to start using a high quality jojoba wax ester based nail oil. The oil will help soften the curve and make your nails more flexible. This will make them more resilient.

It is also important that you NEVER shower naked—as in naked nails.

The water and shampoo help dissolve the oil out of your nails. I explain how damaging water is to nails in “How to Get Polish to Stop Chipping in the Shower.”

Always have at least one layer of base coat completely wrapped around your tips.

In Conclusion

Credit: www.thenailasaurus.com

We all have parts of us that we would like to change, and often times our nails are no exception.

The nail community is getting bigger by the minute, so there’s certainly plenty of nail photos to view.

I know it’s really easy to covet what you don’t have. I certainly know I would love to have longer nail beds.

I think one of the best things you can do is keep your eyes open for nail art bloggers who have nails similar to yours. Let them inspire you.

It’s certainly better than wanting something you can’t have.

One of the things I love about Sammi from The Nailasaurus is that she’s become hugely successful with short, flatter nails.

I’ve always had longer nails, but she has taught me that short, well manicured nails can be equally gorgeous.

You don’t have to be perfect. Just accentuate the positive.

If you liked this article . . . please share!

The post ASK ANA: Curved Nails – Can I Change My C-Curve? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Authors: Doug Schoon and Ana Seidel

Nail Anatomy – The Different Parts of the Fingernail

Do you know where your cuticle is? Or your hyponychium? Most people don’t.

Not only is the general public confused about the names for the parts of the natural nail, but many nail technicians are not able to name the various major parts and know their function.

Let’s change this today.

Matrix

Where new nail plate cells are created and the nail plate begins to form.

Lunula

Lunula

A bluish-white, opaque area that is visible through the nail plate. This area is the front part of the nail matrix. Sometimes, it’s called the “moon.”

The lunula is the front part of the matrix we can see, or in other words, the visible matrix.

Not all fingers have a visible lunula. Usually, it is easiest to find a lunula on a thumb or index finger.

Many people think that they would like to have lunula’s, but in fact, you really don’t.

Since it is the exposed portion of the matrix, this area is not protected by the eponychium. It is easy bruised with every day life tasks.

Those bruises show up as little white marks in the nail plate.

Eponychium

Living skin at the base of the nail plate that covers the matrix area. This should NOT be confused with the “cuticle”.

Proximal Fold of the Eponychium

Healthy Proximal Fold

A tight band of living tissue that most people incorrectly think is their “cuticle”.

Since this skin dries out easily, people are quick to clip this skin believing that it’s not necessary.

Please, please, please…DO NOT CUT THIS SKIN!

The proximal fold is a required guardian seal that prevents germs and bacteria from getting to the nail matrix, where new cells are created.

I always know when girls are cutting. Their entire cuticle line is red and inflamed. Basically, their eponychium is infected all the time.

If you go to a salon for a manicure, do not ever let your nail tech cut this skin.

The best way to keep this skin soft and tight to the nail plate is with a high quality, jojoba wax ester based penetrating nail and cuticle oil.

Cuticle

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

CLICK PICTURE FOR LARGER DETAIL

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and eponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the matrix area.

The cuticle pulls away from the underside of the eponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

The cuticle should NOT be confused with the “eponychium”.

Since polish and nail enhancements don’t bond to skin on the nail plate, the cuticle should be properly removed with gentle scraping only.

Nippers can’t remove the cuticle. It’s physically impossible.

Nail Plate

Composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid, protective layer over the underlying soft tissue.

The nail plate should NOT be confused with the nail “bed”.

The average person has 50 layers of keratin cells that make up the nail plate.

The thickness of your nails is determined by the size of your matrix.

Not everyone’s matrix is the same size. People with thin nails have a small matrix and will have less than 50 layers. People with thick nails have a large matrix and have more than 50 layers.

Nail Bed

The soft, pink tissue that sits underneath and supports the nail plate while it grows. The nail bed should NOT be confused with the nail “plate”.

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Hyponychium

*Represented as a pink line in the first photo

A soft tissue seal underneath the extended “free” edge of the nail plate whose purpose is to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

Onychodermal Band

A band of bunched up tissue located behind the hyponychium.

This band improves the ability of the hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The onychodermal band works in the same way as the proximal fold on the top surface of the nail.

When looking at your bare nails, you can see this darker band of skin right before your nail plate leaves the nail bed to become your free edge.

Solehorn Cuticle

A thin layer of dead tissue riding on the nail plate to form a seal between the nail plate and hyponychium to prevent pathogens from infecting the nail bed.

The solehorn cuticle pulls away from the underside of the hyponychium and attaches tenaciously to the nail plate.

Bone

Bone supports and shapes both the nail matrix and nail bed. The flat or curved shape of your nails is determined by the shape of your fingertip bone.

Knowledge is Power

Knowing your nail anatomy is important for the home manicurist and can actually help you find an excellent nail professional if you’re wanting to be pampered. 

Ask her how she removes the cuticle.

If she shows you nippers instead of a spoon shaped remover or curette, you’ll know to politely walk out and find someone new.

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The post NAIL ANATOMY – Different Parts of Fingernail first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

Source: http://www.sallyhansen.co.uk/nail-shapes

“I have recently subscribed to your (awesome) NAILS HQ Magazine and I was wondering if there is any benefits to any of the nail shapes around.

I much prefer oval tips but when I see (usually acrylic) others the majority are square.

So is there a benefit in strength or stability (less chipping/splitting) in any particular nail shape or is it just personal preference? Thanks in advance.” ~Marlene

 

ANSWER

Usually the most flattering nail shape the is the one that mirrors your cuticle line.

If you have very round cuticle lines, then you are going to do better with round or squoval.

If your cuticle lines are more square than you will do well with square or squoval.

Women who have a strong c-curve tend to have more trouble with square, because the sides start to curve in too much causing the corners to break.

They’ll start filing the corners off … and at the extreme, end up at the almond or stiletto shape.

Depending on the thickness, or thinness, of the nails, almond and stiletto shapes can suffer from more side tears.

In the example above,  you can see that based on the drawn cuticle lines, the shapes that look best are Square Oval (often referred to as Squoval), Round, and Square with rounded corners, (which to me looks the same as Squoval.)

In the example to the left, you can see that  the nail shape actually follows the shape of the cuticle line.

I find it fascinating that they determine which shape is correct vs. incorrect. We obviously see all of them in the nail world.

My favorite shape is squoval even though my cuticle lines are more on the rounded side, except for my thumb nails, which are very square shaped.

If you like the squoval shape, I wrote an article about how I shape mine.

In Conclusion

Ultimately, it’s personal preference and what works with your lifestyle.

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The post ASK ANA: What Nail Shape is Best For Me? first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.

What Kind of File Do I Use?

I only use cardboard nail files when I want to take down a lot of length quickly. Either that, or I cut them before filing.

I like to use a crystal nail file on my nails for finishing work. Because crystal nail files are about a 600 grit (they’re really fine). I have two sizes of crystal files A small, travel-size file in my purse and a full-size file at my nail table.

This ultra fine grit gives you much smoother tips when you’re filing. Smoother tips mean less fraying. Less fraying means less peeling, tearing, and breaking.

In Conclusion

Filing different nail shapes can be challenging and takes practice.

I find that using higher grit files are more forgiving because they don’t file too much too fast. You have a lot more control.

Remember, while you are practicing, it’s ok if it takes you 20 minutes or more to file your nails. You’ll get better over time and you’ll file quicker.

The post Nail Shapes – How To File Nails Square and Squoval first appeared on Nail Care Headquarters.